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1200 DVT Front Wheel Removal

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Bandit, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Evening folks. Any tips on removing the mutley DVT's front wheel (base model) for tyre replacement? Any problems tips etc eg do I need to unbolt the mudguard or calipers? Cheers everyone.
     
  2. Unbolt and twist the calipers to provide space by pushing back pads, or they won't come off, don't forget the fork pinch bolts. :cool:
     
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  3. Come to think of it, the calipers may slide off with the base model ? I know for certain with the S model that the calipers won't come off without twisting to recess the pads, but with the slightly smaller disc, you may be lucky ? Mud guard does not need to come off. :upyeah:
     
  4. The calipers are a bastard to get off one side on the S, the side with double banjo. As above, as much pad back as possible then wiggle out. I put a rag on the rim, to try and minimise any marks. Also, I have a block of rubber (can be anything) that I wedge in between the handle and the brake lever, so I (or anyone else) can't forget and pull the lever while the caliper if off
     
  5. I've done it on base model. Just use rags or some protection for rims as there isn't much clearance to pull off calipers. Didn't have to compress pads on removal but did on caliper installation to make it easier.
     
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  6. Thanks everyone. Got it out new tyre fitted. Anyone know where I can find Torque settings for base dvt pinch bolts, axle nut and caliper bolts please?
    Cheers
     
  7. Thanks everyone wheel out and new tyre fitted! Calipers on the base just slipped off no bother. I recall the spindle nut is 63Nm from another thread on this fine forum.
    Anyone know fork pinch bolts and caliper bolts torque settings please?
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  8. OK

    Pinch bolts and spindle

    Fit spindle and lightly tighten - to pull assy together

    Then tighten right fork leg (sat on bike right) pinch bolts in a 1 - 2 - 1 sequence to 10Nm

    Then tighten the spindle nut to 63Nm (+/-5%)

    Then loosen right pinch bolts.

    Then bounce front wheel/suspension to seat everything (loading suspension)

    Then tighten both sets of pinch bolts to 10Nm +/- 5%

    Then recheck torque on axle nut.

    Calipers

    Tighten the 2 bolts to 2Nm - then pump brake a few times - then holding lever ON - tighten bolts to 45Nm
     
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  9. Cheers Simon, was just trawling through that 1200 page manual, but you saved me the bother...:upyeah:
     
  10. This bit is more critical than some people think :)
     
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  11. Here @Bandit , download within 7 days...........
    https://we.tl/pv4Cd9HEji
     
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  12. nothing actually "seats" by doing this and on these large diameter ud forks, as long as the free side clamp is loose and the axle slides in easily it's very difficult to get mis-alignment. You'd have to make a concerted effort to have side pressure on the fotk. Bouncing was certainly necessary on older tube lowers.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. Oh well I bounced it lol. Front wheel in and torqued up. Now I'm wondering if head raise loose as a clicking/slapping noise was heard whilst bouncing the front end?
     
  14. I always do this with all my bikes, regardless of brand, just to make sure everything is in its place
     
  15. Floating disc movement?
     
  16. multi years 2010-2012 - front
    torque axle nut 47 ft/lb - 63 nm
    torque pinch bolts 14 ft/lb - 19 nm
    torque caliper bolts 33 ft/lb - 45 nm
     
  17. Firstly I think he's finished this, secondly he wants figures for a 2015 DVT....But thanks for coming :p:upyeah:
     
    • Funny Funny x 1

  18. still a good practice though.
     
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