Clang, bang, sprag...?

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Nelson, Jan 15, 2013.

  1. Nelson take the small cover in centre of the aternator off make a plate up with 3 holes in it thread two bolts in the m6 holes and use a long bolt with a nut to jack the cover off
     
    #21 duc904red, Jan 16, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2013
  2. Woohoo.... The bugger is off!

    Made a tool as from the Haynes manual. Right... That big nut...DO I need a special very deep socket?

    Thanks
     
  3. six sided deep socket
    an impact socket is preferable
    you doing it with a breaker bar or an impact gun?
     
  4. Prob try bar first.

    Do you know the socket size... ? Looks like I'm going to need a very deep one!
     
  5. CIMG0103.jpg

    IMHO I would hold the flywheel when you re torque the flywheel nut and would not do it with a rattle gun as you cant do it to the correct torque or by using a clutch holding tool as you put a massive load through the crank.

    I made my own flywheel holding tool for this.

    Just my 2c

    CIMG0103.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 2
  6. nice tool
    l have a rattle gun that tops out at 180ft/lb just wound it up until it wouldnt go anymore
    been ok for couple o years now
    Steve
    ps Nelson whatch out for the washer/shim on the crank end dropping when you re-assemble
    you will know its moved if the flywheel wobbles like you have bent the crank!!!
     
  7. I've ordered one of those clatter guns, been over due one for a while TBH.
    I have total loathing/dread of heaving on breaker bars waiting for skin, bone or bolts to break!
     
  8. 30mm
     
  9. good call rattle/clatters are brill
    you wont need all the holders at the worst put it it gear it will undo
    most time l have gotten them undone holding by hand against compression

    strong locktite on that nut when putting back o
    if there is loctite on there already a bit heat will help
    Steve
     
  10. Hi Chris

    I have a clark cew1000 impact wrench and it's the best thing i have ever bought, every ducati home mechanic should own one.
     
  11. Good move :upyeah:
     
  12. Is the KTM part the same or any better than the Ducati?

    Or is this going to be a regular thing? :rolleyes:
     
  13. Don't forget to look at the ring on the gear that the sprag engages into, it could be galled.

    Also on re-assy, watch the needle bearing cage and shim washer doesn't slip off the crank. Also fit the belleville washer the correct way round.

    As you've got it all apart, it would be an ideal time to fit a lightened flywheel.
     
  14. I noticed in the parts fiche the the Ducati part number has changed for the sprag for the newer bikes.
    Anyone know if the KTM part is still a viable alternative?

    Cheers
     
  15. Hi Nelson
    Glad you are progressing well
    I don't know about the later models my knowledge ends after the desmoquattro series re ktm sprag
    Regards Steve
     
  16. I have a 'orrible feeling in me bones...:frown:

    Looks like Mr Pelican is coming for a visit with his Big Bill...!!!
     
  17. Hi Nelson what's up ?
    Steve
     
  18. I have a good used desmoquattro sprag here if that would help
    Steve
     
  19. Hi Steve,

    I can't get to the bottom of whether the Desmo/KTM one will fit the Testta. Even the 848/1098/1198 part numbers appear to have changed...:rolleyes:
    Think I'm going to have to wait till the bugger is out, post some pics and see how it compares!
    I'm a bit stuck until my socket arrives!

    A new 1098 one from Motorapido is £120!
    KTM one is £47.60

    Or replace / rework the spring, if not Mrs Mangled!
     
  20. here's a pic of a desmoquattro none
    13mm x 69mm

    2013-01-17 10.30.39.jpg
     
Do Not Sell My Personal Information