As above gents - this could be more of a general 1100DS question....how many hours (assuming you know what youre doing) would it take to remove the front barrel?
I would estimate that it should be easily achievable in under 2 hours. A fair bit longer to get the rear one off though. More so for a water cooled engine.
Hmm - local unnamed bike shop quoted me 8 hours to remove and put back on....im currently going over it sorting out the multitude of fuck-ups, nothing anyone has done - just shit ducati workmanship (with regards to coatings and fixings). Luckily the vertical barrel and to a certain extent underneath are in good condition....id like to remove the front barrel, get it cerakoted and the get it put back on....im happy with doing most stuff on my bikes but I don't know enough about the top end to dismantle it and re-assemble....if there was someone in the Bristol area that could help/do it id happily cross their hand with cash...
Less than an hour, you'll be fine, just make sure there is no dirt or stones on top around the barrell/crankcase join before you lift the barrell.
Easier said than done....I could probably/maybe get it apart but no idea how to put it back together (getting the top end set up)....its something id rather not chance as if I get it wrong....new top end or worse...
What's to go wrong? Keep your workspace clean and organised line all the timing marks up disassemble! It's not hard or complicated,clean inspect,and refit making sure all the marks line up,the dealers/trade have used scare tactics regarding these engines for years ,, Yes if you get it wrong your in trouble but as long as your organised and fairly handy with a spanner it shouldn't be a problem,rather simple engines really,
Not that confident....assuming I get lost on reassembly - then theres no one to help and, more importantly - I cant move it...(no trailer)
4 cylinder head nuts,2 exhaust nuts,no head gasket,(I assume it's the same as a 900ss motor) take photos for refit! Have all the new parts,belts,ect and tools ready,take the belt covers of and the spark plugs out,put the bike in gear and move the wheel until the timing marks line up,remove belts,front exhaust off,inlet manifold off,cylinder head nuts loosen and remove the head,a few taps with rubber hammer and barrel should lift,the head will stay complete (but now is a good time to poke around and see how it all works,it's quite simple/clever) to reassemble is the reverse,if the timing marks line up its going to work,if they don't line up make them line up by turning the cam belt drive on the head you removed until it's the way it was before you touched it,once it's all together spin the rear wheel while watching the timing marks to see that they all match and turn freely without any contact,quite satisfying to do yourself and saves a lot of money
Ok...gonna read through your explanation a few times. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain...I presume it's the same! I'll get the existing job complete first....
8 hours probably has some contingency built in - yes it’s easy enough to strip down but probably need the tank off to get to the throttle body . You can buy the pins to lock the cam and crank in position cheaply if you want to give it a go yourself without worrying about timing - but you will need to remove piston also - it’s easier if you remove the gudgeon pin and lift off with the barrel and replace the same way - but then I guess you’ll need to remove the piston from the barrel before sending for coating - so you’ll need piston ring compressor also Speak to the garage again - it’ll probably end up 5 or 6 hrs max
Scary - hmmmm - going on ebay looking for the pins what am I looking for - that would be a good start as if its locked then theres no chance of anything falling out of timing as it were (one thing less to worry about)...
8 hours is a complete rip off,fairly confident amateur hobby mechanic 2hours max with tea breaks and toilet breaks,it's the front pot! The exposed one, six bolts plus intake,lift the barrel? Refit helpful if you have someone to help guide the piston rings in but very doable on your own,how anyone could get 8hrs work outa that job would have me doubting their ability to work on any machine! Would you employ a mechanic who took that long to do that job?
No locking pins needed! The head and its components are complete they will not explode or fall apart,when you refit the head use the belt on the pulley to line the marks up then retention the belt, The twin cam heads you can use a tool like a spanner that fits between the two pulleys and locks the position, it's handy but not essential it's about £6 on evilbay,but it's simple if the timing marks are lined up there will be no contact of valves,Pistons,it's desmodromic completely mechanical and designed to work that way,don't worry if when you remove the belt the pulley jolts and seems to lose timing,there's a little Spring with not a lot of force that will cause that,it's easy to turn it back with the belt! Main thing is "line the dots"
Above locking tools are handy on twin cam motors but not essential and I don't see the point on single cam motors,it's not hard,
So, the only thing that's connecting the head (as such) is, the belt...so you remove the belt, and the head will come away from the cylinder? (with a rubber mallet knock of course)
Yeah,it's complete, to get it apart you'd need to use tools, it won't explode and disappear into all corners of the workshop I can't do links,not computer savvy but the pin for your motor is evilbay no 111665622548 on a single cam motor I'd rather have a Tenners worth of beer! Don't panic about this job use correct fitting tools and spray penetrating lube on bolts the night before you start,especially the bolts that hold the timing covers on they can seize and be a pain in the arse, The piston rings are easy to relocate in the barrel,
Heh - that's @Exige 's locking tool ( I didn't know he did them ) !! - I guess if ive got 2 then theres no chance of anything falling out of alignment...and pin the vertical cylinder also. In reply to matt ive no problems with removing the tank - done that quite a few times....are you suggesting that if I remove that the whole job will be easier?
