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Clutch Flush

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by TonyG, Mar 19, 2018.

  1. Hi,

    I decided to flush some new fluid through the clutch on my 2009 M1100s. I flushed the fluid through at both master and slave with no issues, no bubbles, all seemed to go very well. However, on starting the bike up it now has a noticeable clunk when engaging 1st gear. I repeated the process, tried tying back the clutch lever overnight, etc.. Now, it is very smooth when I first engage gear, but as the bike warms up, or as I sit there putting it in and out of gear it gets worse. It seems rideable, and doesn't creep forward with the clutch engaged, but doesn't seem right. With the clutch cover off I can see the plates almost stop spinning when I first pull the clutch in, but as the bike warms the plates still spin quite fast when I pull the lever in, leading to the clunk as the clutch is not fully disengaging. As I say this all seemed to start with a simple fluid flush.

    I'd be grateful for any advice, I don't have a vacuum bleeder so flushed using the old method of lever in, open bleed nipple, close nipple, lever out.
    Should I take the slave off and clean up the clutch rod, presume I can do that without draining the system?
    Everything else is good, clutch has 10,000 miles on it appears fine, as I say no issues at all when doing the flush, no issues previously. Bike has not been used for about 2 months though.

    Cheers
     
  2. Doing it the old fashined way is a bit hit and miss. If you put the end of the tubing below the level of the (waste) brake fluid in your draining bottle, you don’t need to open/close the bleed nipple, just pump away. M/Cs are notorious for trapping air, I’ve had huge issues with a Diavel front brake M/C. Andy
     
  3. Thanks Andy,
    I prefer opening and closing the bleed nipple as it just seems to work better in my experience.
    I can't see how I introduced any air into the system with a simple flush.
     
  4. Usual criterion is if you can engage neutral at rest
    If you can do that, most people would be content.
    If you can’t, more bleeding required...
     
  5. I can engage neutral at rest, just seems to be much more clunky engaging 1st gear than I remember once it is warmed up. Very odd.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. Maybe,as youve not used it for a bit,that the steel plates are a bit rusty exagerating any drag.They may clean up after a bit of use.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. I fitted a banjo bleed nipple on my clutch master and bleeding became a bleedin' site easier. Air/bubbles rise and all that......
     
  8. Yes, will try and get out for a blast and see if it clears up.
    Bike already has a bleed nipple on the clutch master.

    Thanks
     
  9. The friction material is sintered with small amounts of steel which rusts to the steel plates when left for a while.
    The stickiness should go away with a bit of use.
     
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