Hey hey....could anyone tell me what torque the center nut should be done up to on a 996SPS Clutch (if that makes a difference). I have heard 190Nm but, my haynes manual says something completly different so I am not sure now. Before doing it up again should I remove it and put some thread lock on? I think it have come loose a little with has added to my gear problems refered to in my other thread in superbike. I can see the caps on the clutch springs moving in and out when the clutch is pulled. I am told this should not happen.
It should be 190Nm - I did mine on the Hypermotard a couple of weeks ago. I remember because it's the same as the wheel nuts and alternator nut ... which is handy as it's what my Snap-On (digital) torque wrench is set at! What does Haynes say? Are you sure they're refering to the same nut? And no, the spring caps should not move. It sounds like something is moving in there, so best to strip out the clutch pressure plate and springs, then the clutch plates and take a look. You should be able to feel if something is loose by pulling on the clutch inner hub.
In my 999R manual there is a torque settings page which states . Rear wheel 180Nm Clutch center nut 190Nm Alternator nut 270Nm I think all the bigger engined Ducatis are the same. Think you need a bigger torque wrench.
Fortunately my Snap-On goes up to 340Nm and as it's digital it doesn't need unwinding each time hence the ease of having everything the same! The alternator nut was on the 748 and is 190Nm according to the workshop manual I have, and both the 748 and Hyper have single sided swing-arms compared to the 999, so the nuts are bound to be different. Maybe your 999R is just so special it requires much higher torque values on the alternator?
The swing arm hasnt got anything to do with it and Ducati changed the torque values for all bikes back in about 2000 . Nothing special about the R torques they are all like that. They changed to a higher torque to try to stop them coming loose there was a service bulletin sent round at the time . Dont take my word for it . Read here.http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall...l-alternator-rotor-retaining-nut-problem.html .
Check the big petal-shaped washer between nut and hub. The one on my 916 had 'eaten' into the ally of the hub so much that it was flush (looked like it was machined into it) and despite being correctly torqued would move out a couple of mm when the clutch was actuated.
I see you are still about - so a big thanks for this info - even after almost exactly eight years! My spring caps started to rub on the clutch cover there was so much float in the clutch hub. Which was why I took a closer look. I have one on order, and a hub, as mine is also 'embedded' into the hub too. It's dead flat now though and I can push the hub back onto the cush drives leaving about 3mm gap between its face and the nut+collar that holds it on! Bike was a recent acquisition for some track work, its becoming a fascinating project
The give away sign on mine was that the spring retainer was rubbing on the inside of the clutch cover yet the nut was tight. I replaced the hub but did actually consider simply fitting another (petal) washer on top of the old, embedded one which would probably have worked fine.
I found TWO petal washers on my hub. Both had impinged into the alloy of the hub face so badly that they were now buried into, and flush with, the hub face! A new hub face has a machined 'land' where the petal washer faces it, and its at least 1mm pround of the casting. So a new unit will see the edges of the washer sit slightly 'off' the alloy of the hub. Combined with a petal washer and a serrated lock washer torqued correctly to 190Nm, there should be NO hub end float. So, I had about 3mm end float off the cush drives - no wonder the clutch bite point kept moving. Seems someone added a washer to compensate for other issues instead of fixing the original gap issue between nut/flange and hub face. New hub, kept one petal washer, and fitted a new lock washer. It's essential to use a new lock washer (serrated and domed) I think given its job here. Mine was flat and the edges knocked off like it had been reused more than once - not good. I suspect the clutch nut backed out at some point in its life as a result, and the chatter had eaten into the bub face. It's like a new bike
