Help.. I've changed the friction plates in my 2003 multistrada and have run into problems. The first issue was after putting the clutch back together the lever was really stiff.. Solid in fact so I assumed it needed bleeding and this seemed to solve that issue? But then if I select gears with the engine off there's no problem it selects neutral great but if I try to move the bike in gear with the clutch in it feels like the clutch is dragging and not fully engaged. With the motor running it sounds great the pressure plate moves as it should and the sound of the clutch quietens down with the lever pulled in. However try and select a gear and the bike lurches forward and stalls. Help please guys I'm pulling my hair out
Sounds like the friction plates are too thick, Chris is the man who knows this subject inside out, i’ll Get him to look at your problem
ive changed the slave cylinder to the Oberon unit but this hasn't changed anything. I did manage to get the clutch working after messing on bleeding the system for hours but getting neutral while the bike was running was just not happening. so I was advised to swap over to the Oberon unit to clear this up and guess what now I cant select a gear while the bikes running it just stalls immiediately. Could the problem be a bad case of air entrapment?. ive ordered new bleed nipples and crush washers incase air is getting in at this point but I'm stumped..
Stack height. Try switching some of the old plates into the stack until you can pull the lever in.As the plates wear you can switch in a new one.
Just my tuppence worth. Did you always have the Oberon slave or did you put it on at the same time as changing the plates? IIRC when changing to an Oberon slave some bikes need a different length clutch pushrod, longer I think. Of course this may not apply to a 1000DS as I’m not familiar with them, mine’s a 748. However there are some threads on here about it if you do some searches. If the pushrod is just slightly too short it won’t move the pressure plate sufficiently to permit the clutch plates to fully release. You can select gear when the engine is off without disengaging the clutch as there’s no pressure on the gearbox but if the plates aren’t fully releasing you won’t be able to select gear when the engine is running. One of the symptoms you describe above. I just thought it worth asking the question about when the Oberon were fitted.
It is clutch drag that's the problem and the Oberon slave won't be helping matters because the reduced effort comes at the expense of less lift which exacerbates the drag issue. Do as chrisw says and temporarily fit some of the old plates or, if you have any, swap one or more of the 2.0mm plain plates for 1.5mm ones.
unfortunately not. its a v,simple system but reading many threads on here its v,easy to get wrong. i dare say, come the day, i will be on here wondering where i have gone wrong. stack height, push rods and bleeding methods. they all seem to differ.
When I had this problem, after reducing stack height again and again, I eventually discovered that in my case it was due to the tabs on the new friction plates binding in the basket slots. I cured it by doing as suggested, ie putting some of the old friction plates back in but I put them all at the top of the stack to allow the plates to clear and separate when the pressure plate lifts. I always intended to do as Derek suggests and replace the old plates with the new ones after a while but I've never got around to it as it works fine and the quiet clutch mod stops any chattering. Also, make sure you have the embossed triangular arrow moulded into the pressure plate aligned with the post with the slot cut into the top of it.
I've just fitted the Oberon and it did come with an extension for the pushrod but this is for pre 2000 models. I think the problem is with the basket being heavily grooved
Finally after nearly two months of aggro relating to the clutch its sorted at long last. Downside is It took way too long and the fix was nothing to do with the clutch!. It seems the former owner had fitted a remote side stand switch which had failed. I would never have found it in a million years but as you drop the bike in gear this switch is telling the bike the sidestands down and stalls. Handy if you knew it was there I suppose. The old owner told me it was a security measure to stop thieving toe rags nicking his bike.... Personally I prefer a decent lock but each to their own.
