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1000ds Clutch

Discussion in 'Detailing and cleaning' started by mark robinson, Oct 16, 2018.

  1. Hi there guys this is really getting me down now.
    My multistrada 1000ds clutch is a complete pain in the arse so I'm asking for help.
    Can somebody please do a step by step on how to replace the steel and friction disks and get the clutch operating again.
    Please don't leave out any details no matter how small because at some point I've missed something and don't know what.
    I've replaced the slave with an Oberon unit and changed the worn out friction plates but all to no avail.
    The bike starts runs I operate the clutch and the dry clutch rattle disappears the pressure plate moves so everything seems good.
    But try and select a gear and the bike just stalls?
    I'm pulling my hair out guys I've ordered new banjo bolts crush washers and bleed nipple and a vacuum bleeder to see if I've got air entrapment in the system but any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance for the help
     
  2. The Oberon unit is likely to make things worse, rather than better as it has a mechanical advantage ratio optimised for a light lever and reduces the throw of the pressure plate.
    The embossed triangle on the pressure plate must align with the post with a slot in the top.
    Overall stack height must leave several mm between the top plate and the end of the basket. Lower stack height is preferable to higher.
    New, especially pattern friction plates can bind in the basket slots and there is no positive force to separate the plates.
    Try putting say four old friction plates back in at the top end of the stack to replace the new ones. If the new plates are binding, these old ones will allow enough separation to stop the drag.
    Don't re-assemble the bike, just keep experimenting with fairing off and clutch cover off to save time and frustration.
    Do not tighten the clutch bolts any more than to just gently nip them up.
    Good luck!
     
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  3. OK I'll have a look but I've ordered a new basket today as mine is really badly grooved
     
  4. have you measured the stack height??
     
  5. New plates and a badly notched basket are not a good combination
     
  6. Do you have 2 steel plates first (Engine) - then alternate friction and steel ?
     
  7. Yes that's correct two steel plates then alternating friction and steel
     
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  8. is there a measurement for how far the push rod should protrude when the stack height is right?
     
  9. Never heard of one but can see your thinking, Fin:)
     
  10. never had one apart, i am firmly in the, if it works leave it alone department.
    i took a wee look at mine last night, an 1100, i can only assume there is a rod that protrudes into the cylinder.
     
  11. Indeed and it locates in a release bearing in the pressure plate at the other end.
     
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  12. Have you left side stand down? i.e does your bike still have the side stand cut out?
     
  13. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. “
    If it’s smooth and quiet, leave it alone but mine was so bad it was making an enormous racket while cruising along on a neutral throttle, not just in neutral at idle.
    I had a friend who’d tried the quiet clutch mod to great effect, so new frictions and the quiet clutch mod it was.
    So my clutch is now quiet, light and smooth but it did require some fixing to get it that way. The great thing about the Ducati dry clutch is that with the help of an electric screwdriver and a couple of decent telescopic magnets, you can have the plates out in a few minutes, so experimentation is quick and easy. :)
     
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  14. cool, how are you with fork seals and when are you available? :p
     
  15. Hopeless but did get very slick at whipping out clutch plates cos I did it so many times in succession trying to sort the terminal drag.
    Got there in the end though and discovered as a by-product that although reducing stack height made no difference to the drag on my case, it did usefully lighten the lever.
    So, as I was getting none of expected slip from that, I left it like that and am still running a stack height in the low 30s - iirc, circa 38 is about normal.
    If it ever does start to slip, I’ll just ‘slip’ another plate in lol.
     
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  16. Good point to distinguish if this is a wiring or real clutch issue.
    If you put the bike on the centrestand, engine off, in gear (doesn't matter which one) - can you turn the rear wheel when you pull the clutch lever in? Or does the bike lurch forward when you engage a gear?
    Or does the engine simply cut out?
     
  17. I mention this as when ive taken my clutch apart, i have it on paddock but I often leave side stand down. So when I test clutch by pulling in lever and selecting a gear, the bike cuts out. I cant be the only one whose taken their clutch apart again to check before theyve realised their error. :)
     
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  18. @mark robinson,
    I'm sure you've measured the stack height and also the order of the plates.
    make sure that the spring plate is facing the right way.

    The oberon shouldn't make you have the problems you're having. On re-assembly try this;
    remove your clutch slave cylinder - unbolt it from the engine case and move it out of the way.
    Re-assemble your clutch and wind on the pressure plate.
    Now refit your slave cylinder.
    What this does is allow the actuator rod to be pushed back and already be under load when you reisntall the slave.
    The slave piston will be forced to withdraw into the sleeve as the actuator rod pushes it back.
    You should notice your fluid level rise accordingly.
    I'm tempted to say that you probably don't have air in the system, especially if your clutch is actuating when you pull the lever.
    The ducati slave cylinders are actually one of the nicer hydraulic clutches to bleed, try bleeding a suzuki clutch for an exercise in frustration!
    See if that works :) :upyeah:

    P.s. Are you using the OEM master cylinder ( a PS13 iirc) or a radial one?
    Oberon also should have supplied you with a spacer to insert into the slave piston - as on some models the length of the actuator rod is different (shorter) to the earlier bikes and so the difference needs to be taken up. Don't confuse this with throw however as the piston will only ever move a given amount.
     
    #18 Sev, Oct 22, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2018
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