Ok, so my mate came over so we could service his bike, which went well. Oh a 749S 2003 He was having this intermittent problem and what we foundout that it was Error Code 37, Immobiliser. So we started to read up a little on the fault and saw quite a few timesthat it was related to the ignition relay and or the fuel pump. I notice the wiring loom had been tamperedwith so we stripped it right back and sure enough there was a bit of a mess, soI cut the wires back and tidied that up, however the problem was still evident. It can start fine for 20 oddtimes then nothing. We have swapped outthe ignition relay and made no difference, however it did seem that when we move thewiring to the fuel pump it changes the matter, either working or not, this became apparent when we went to put the seat back on after it was working and we could not fault it, put the tank/seat on and nothing. There is 6 volts on the orange wire, on thefuel pump, which I believe is a low voltage solenoid??, my understandingis that it should click in the fuel pump for the full 12V. I also have 12.4 Volts at the Plug to thefuel pump on the white/pink cable? All the wiring seams fine and no obvious signs of damage orcorrosion etc. Any help would be greatlyappreciated.
Sounds like the fuel pump relay itself is failing. They often go, a a result of the elements getting at them. However, someone who knows what they're talking about will be along soon and point you in the right direction.
See below for error code numbers: 1.1 TPS Disconnected 1.2 TPS short circuit to earth 2.1 Pressure Sensor short circuit to power supply 2.2 Pressure Sensor shorted to earth 3.1 Water Temp Sensor shorted to power supply 3.2 Water Temp Sensor shorted to earth 4.1 Air Temp Sensor shorted to power supply 4.2 Air Temp Sensor Shorted to earth 5.1 Battery Hi 5.2 Battery Lo 10.1 Hor. Coil shorted to power supply 10.2 Hor. Coil shorted to earth 11.1 Ver. Coil shorted to power supply 11.2 Ver. Coil shorted to earth 12.1 Inj1 shorted to power supply 12.2 Inj1 shorted to earth 13.1 Inj2 shorted to power supply 13.2 Inj2 shorted to earth 14.1 Inj3 shorted to to power supply 14.2 Inj3 shorted to earth 15.1 Inj4 shorted to powersupply 15.2 Inj4 shorted to earth 16.0 Pump Relay 17.1 LH Fan shorted to power supply 17.2 LH Fan shorted to earth 18.1 RH Fan shorted to power supply 18.2 RH Fan shorted to earth 19.1 Starter Solenoid shorted to power supply 19.2 Starter Solenoid shorted to earth 30.0 ROM/Eprom error 34.0 Signal Panel Sensor 36.0 Speed sensor 37.0 Immobiliser (transponder) 37.1 Immobiliser (antenna) 37.2 Immobiliser (instrument panel serial driver) 37.3 Immobiliser (serial cable disconnected) 37.4 Immobiliser (ccm serial drive) 37.5 Immobiliser (key not recognised) 37.6 Can Line error -------
Ok so out in man cave tinkering away, checked the bike first no warning light and was all good for a while, replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one and it it was still ok but after a bit it stopped working again and the engine light back on the dash and now will not start at all? Any further ideas?
Usual culprit for this issue is the Injector/Fuel Pump Relay (but you have replaced this?). This relay is found either just below the starter solenoid held with a rubber strap or Front left of the battery box (near to where the fan is) held with a square rubber holder.
What I can do is flash you a loan ECU with the Immo disabled to see if it is the immo circuit within the ECU. This will also allow you to actually start the bike with no Clocks on the bike just in case it is the part of the immo coding that sits within the clocks. PM me if you want to try this.
Thats a very nice offer thank you We found the relay tucked up behind the heat shield behind the battery, it was full of road grim, we cleaned it all up, new relay and it worked. We thought ok that might be a good sign, on/off several times and was looking promising ran the bike for a little to get all the fluids around, let it all settle, checked oil levels and replaced the farings and then turned on again, nothing, engine light on, moved the handle bars and turn the key it came back to life, then off/on twice and then no more, engine light on and thats the end of the night. We have conceded defeat and he will now take it to the mechanic to plug his machine in see the fault. I even have another fuel pump and still the same, even if the pump is disconnected it still works sometimes then stops. What we did notice that when it does work the fuel pump prime is different, short burst and the relay clicks when the key is first turn on then when the gauges flick around and stop there is no second click from relay. When it does work there is a second click from the relay? calling it a night now will return in the morning and see if there are any further ideas
A common problem is that the immobiliser ring, housed in the ignition barrel cover, slips down a bit and so can't always read the key. Check this and its connection to the loom.
Hi baggazee we checked this first, and all looked fine, sits in there nice and snug we didn't pull it out as we thought we might break it, so it seats in nice and tight, I had this problem with my S2R 1000. I even took mine off my 749 and tried and made no difference. thank you
went out to the bike when i returned from work and it started first time every time, fooling thing, could not fault it, came back out after dinner and nothing. So I have been thinking and reading. Going to check the connections and earths one more time, if that fails then its off to the mechanic
Update:: could not fault the bike all weekend. It's almost as if we have semi fixed it, as tonight when I got home I tried it, it works first go then wouldn't work again. I checked the earth from the battery to the engine and that was fine although I clean again to be sure. Allot of head scratching i tell ya, mates very worried about taking it the mechanic as the cost could spiral out of control just fault finding. But then again the do have the right testing equipment.
If I were you I'd give Alec at Ducati Proteam a call, he has sorted many issues like this out for me and things have never spiralled out of control. He'll collect and return your bike to you too.
Ok so now the bike has has the wiring loom replaced and even though we tidied up large sections of the loom there was even more tampering further inside so far it looks like it has fixed it. Out of curioustiy what would expect to pay a ducati mechanic for a this job?
