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Oil Pressure Light Below 3000rpm

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by Irogerh, Jan 29, 2020.

  1. Finally got bike MOT’d today after 8 years off the road!!!!!! Pleased with the way it runs but despite new pressure gauge being fitted, the oil light comes on below 3000 rpm, OK above this. When placed on a rear wheel stand (i.e.bike is level) then it would appear that i have overfilled the oil a bit - could this cause the problem? When fitting a new oil pressure gauge (my old one just had a spade terminal on it - the new one has a click-together integrated plastic connector) I noticed that the rating on the body of the sensors were different. The supplier assured me that the new part was a direct replacement for the old part but I did wonder if that is the case. Does anyone else have experience of a similar problem?
    Suggestions appreciated
    Thanks
     
  2. over filling won't do it Irog, you are right to take it seriously although it is common for oil sensors to play up with a false value sent to dashboard. Hard to tell without (possibly) doing more damage, but is engine noisier than usual, particularly when blipped? Does light come on only when hot? I would get another sender first of all as easiest route for starters.
     
    #2 Chris, Jan 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2020
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  3. Sensor, I reckon.
     
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  4. If unsure take it to the dealers and have the oil pressure checked.
    More than likely it’s the sensor.
     
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  5. Mine was playing up, got it checked out for peace of mind and all reported fine.
    It was doing this under 1000rpm, at tick over, and inexplicably has since stopped!
     
  6. Irrespective of what's on the packet I believe these oil sensors all come from the same chinese factory
    My 1098 one I bought from Ebay the original had snapped It showed low oil pressure. I fitted the one from my 916 and all ok
    I bought Vauxhall agiula ones from Eurocarparts in the end I have a spare
    Same switch much cheaper than ducati
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Thanks guys. I will change the sensor and if no joy then get the pressure checked. The engine sounds fine - although it is so long since I’ve ridden it that I can’t recall how it was before :). The problem seemed to arise after 5 to 6 miles, I will also try again at the weekend to see if it is related to engine temp.
     
  8. I had similar on my Multi 1100, it was a sensor with a cracked body which got oil into the internals, which gave similar syptoms
     
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  9. +1 for a sensor in the first instance.

    The only other culprit for low oil pressure is the aluminium crank oilway blanking plug coming loose this, however, usually means a catastrophic drop in pressure throughout the rev range.

    For the amount of time it will take to drop the oil out, it would be worth checking the oil for a sparkly metallic appearance or slivers of aluminium appearing when you drain the oil.

    If all is clear and the oil is fresh, just pop it back in.

    No harm no foul but worth a look.
     
  10. To check for the gallery plug issue it’s better to put the bike on it’s side stand, place a clean container (washing up bowl) under the oil strainer nut on the RH side of the engine, then undo the nut and withdraw the strainer, if you see lots of aluminium bits on the strainer element there’s a good chance the gallery plug is failing, once you’ve confirmed the strainer is clear you’ll know the the gallery plug isn’t failing so you can replace it and pour the oil that’s in the clean container back into the engine, I’m talking about the strainer on the RH side of the engine NOT the oil filter on the bottom of the engine.

    PS It’s not likely to be the gallery plug causing the issue, far more likely to be the sender that’s faulty.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. Mine is up to its old tricks again, and again it’s around tick over, anything over and the light goes out.
    Not a major issue however....
    @WAH900ss these identical ones do they work within the same Bar pressure parameters as the original?
    I know they are only a few pounds but would like to check before replacing
     
  12. Hi @Carr01 don't know, maybe I should add the caveat "physically identical" to 2nd generation, 1st gen had spade connector, from memory I found it via part number cross references. I bought a couple at that price, used 1, works as standard that's all I can tell you, illuminates when not running, extinguishes when cranking / starting with no on/off/maybe nonsense, you've either got oil pressure or you haven't, if doesn't extinguish then the motor is probably already toast. I can't believe Ducati have bespoke oil pressure switches made just for them & I'll be dammed if I'm paying Ducati list price on a generic part. Sorry I can't be more help.
    (original Ducati code 539.4.030.1A and 539.4.019.1A) - The General Motors code is 90.534.902.)
     
  13. Hey thanks a million that’s more than enough help!
    I’ve looked online and found an outlet nearby, I’ll remove mine and take it with me.
    Thanks again, great help.
     
  14. Standard one for an ST2 is a 10 by 1 mm thread, same as early VWs. The pressure that they put the light on varies though, it should be stamped on the top of the sensor in Bar.
     
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  15. fit a new sensor, take the spark plugs out so it will spin over fast with the starter motor, see if the light goes out after a few seconds, that way you will see if there is oil pressure without doing any damage.
     
  16. I didn’t realise just how many vehicles use that same configuration of thread and connector plug type. As said, the ratings do vary as a result, I’ve just had a look and found .4 bar and .6 bar .
     
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  17. And a .6 bar might show the light below 3000 rpm where a .4 bar might not, there is 3 psi difference.
    The choice of oil will do the same, a *w40 will be thinner than a *w50 when warm which will mean a slightly lower pressure. I believe that Ducati want you to use the *w50 in most, if not all, of the range.
     
  18. Could always fit a capillary fed oil pressure gauge on the frame roughly near the tank front rubber block is, of course. It would be quite a short copper tube to have coiled down to the pressure take off point.
     
  19. What a bad day! Changed the oil sensor and was happy as Larry for about 8 miles when it started coming back on below 3000rpm again - same as before. Tried to keep it above 3000 to get home but after 4 miles or so the bike just ground to a halt. Solid. Couldn’t push it even in neutral. Wondered what to do. After 10 mins or so I decided to try the engine and it started and ticked over fine. After a few mins the wheels freed up and I was able to ride the bike home - kept pulling the clutch in to see if it was freewheeling ok.
    I initially thought the engine had seized but couldn’t move the bike even in neutral and once started again it seemed to run fine. Is it possible that the transmission plates could lock up with reduced oil pressure? Your thoughts welcome. I am at a loss and thinking of taking it to a dealer to get it looked at.
     
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