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Wheels From Other Bikes!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by LiveFast......, Feb 1, 2020.

  1. Is it possible to fit aftermarket wheels from other bike brands to a Ducati.

    Specifically from a CBR600RR to a 959 panigale.

    The wheel sizes are the same but in other aspects they are going to differ.

    I’m wondering if wheel manufacturers such as OZ make specific wheels for each bike or use the same basic wheel with different bearing, spacers and bushings to make them fit.

    In the case of the CBR600RR the front wheel is definitely different as it has 6 disc holder bolts rather than the 5 of the Panigale - however the disc diameter is the same so with the right discs that wouldn’t be an issue.

    The brake callipers would still have to line up - possibly just spacers?

    Does anyone have any experience of this?

    Are there just too many unknown factors?

    Cheers

    Steve
     
  2. from my very limited experience of shopping for wheels lately, alot is possible but is it worth the money and faff? over buying fit for purpose ...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-Ne...410235?hash=item23cfd09afb:g:JNsAAOSwZL5eLejP
    is a good example, other than i think its a 16 inch wheel so not so cool. but by all accounts you have to change the wheel spacer, so id imagine that means finding the correct bearings. which may or may not be a big deal but its all added money
     
  3. The faff factor is always there - but the wheels I’m looking at also have Brembo HPK discs fitted so the total savings are pretty good - if - and it’s a big if - they can be made to fit!

    I’m trying to build a 959 track bike without it breaking the bank as I don’t want to be too worried about binning it every time I take it out. I’m avoiding buying new because of this factor - 50% cost or less is my current rule!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. sounds like a good plan.... sorry i dont have the technical smarts to help out.... look forward to pics and the low down though for sure!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. which year of cbr600rr ?
     
  6. 2007 onwards - apparently they haven’t changed since then.
     

  7. How do the fork spacing, diameters and lengths compare? It may be easier to make the whole front end Honda as that could save a lot of hassle lining up callipers and axles.
     
  8. great, thanks.

    Ok, your 600rr wheel has the following disc dimensions:
    320mm diameter
    94mm centre bore
    110mm PCD - 6 bolt M6 fittings.
    The offset is 10.25mm
    Brembo code 208.9737.12

    Both wheels share a 20mm front axle.

    The 959 has the following:
    320mm diameter
    72mm centre bore
    90mm PCD - 5 bolt M8 fittings.
    The offset is 12.5mm
    Brembo code 208.9737.11

    Offset is from from the mounting face where it touches the wheel - it's planar face, to the centreline of the disc.
    The reason you used the centreline is because the disc thickness can vary and on a floating disc you've got around a .5mm float window - on older cast iron discs float out of the factory was huge.

    If you want to measure from disc outer face to mounting face add half of the overall disc thickness so the panigale for instance becomes offset = OEM 15mm as it has a 5mm thick disc as standard.


    so...

    Fitting this wheel is going to depend on the following:
    (these seem alot but it's really tweaking)

    Wheel track width across faces and disc centre line
    First of all Track width across disc mounting faces- you need this in order to work out the caliper centre to centre.
    So for example :
    OEM wheel is lets say 100mm mounting face to mounting face
    Disc offset is 15mm per side. ( x2 for left and right)
    So the total caliper centreline is 125mm (100 + 15 + 15)

    Honda Wheel
    Lets say wheel mounting face is also 100mm
    Disc offset is 10.25mm per side
    So total offset is 100 + 10.25 + 10.25 = 120.5

    meaning you'd need 9.5mm of spacing or 4.75mm spacers each side of the disc.

    As your bike is a radial caliper you're not going to be in the position of removing material if you have too much width, but you can add spacers if you don't have enough.

    In terms of axles you have a choice.
    if you need to remove material you can machine off and if you need to add, you can have collars machined to take up the slack.
    The cbr collar is straight through with a retaining bolt at the end, whereas the panigale one is threaded at one end with a retaining nut.

    My first question would be to get the disc mounting face widths on the OZ wheel.
    Add + 20.5mm and you see if your disc centres are anywhere near.
    If they are, everything else is just spacers and collars.

    If you do decide to go for it and it's still all a bit confusing - I can talk you through it stage by stage - having been there and done it myself :)
     
    #8 Sev, Feb 2, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
    • Useful Useful x 3
  9. Wow - that’s an incredibly great response @Sev - It’s a shame I cant’ mark a post with useful, thanks and I love you at the same time, because you deserve it! :):):)

    Now I just have to shake this hangover, try to get your info into my very fuzzy brain - and get those measurements!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  10. muchly ta :)
    yup, start with the basics.
    Measurements first then we see where we go from there.

    It's the wheel you're interested in so we'll just concentrate on that and not complicate things with different forks and yokes and stuff like that.

    I think for the CBR the fork centres might be 204mm.
    If the track on the panigale hasn't changed from the old ducati standard of 205mm I think you'll be good to go as the caliper centrelines will be very similar, so fingers crossed we're talking maybe 1-2mm in your favour.
    :upyeah:
     
  11. Panigale has a wider track than the old bikes

    226mm
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Splendid. Ok so once he has the honda details we’re cooking on gas.
     
  13. Brain is slowly starting to work again and focus on bikes rather than memories of lithe 25 year old girls ;)

    I’m looking at a pair of wheels - so far just the front has been discussed - before I start firing off questions to the seller are there any specifics I would need to know for the rear?
     
  14. Rears are generally easier.
    The critical measurement for rears is the distance from the inside face of the sprocket to the centreline.

    the reason being is that you go from centreline of bike to inside face of front sprocket- which should align with the inside face of the rear sorocket.

    If theres no mould line then just use the centre of the tyre valve.

    now oz, like marchesini probably use a standard blank and build outwards with spacers and the cush, so it might be worth just asking if the cush rubbers are good and the rough distance between centre line and the cush rubber mounting bit.

    if you look at that link in my other post I go into both front and rear wheels.

    anything can be made to fit anything and the right way to do it is to add material rather than start machining stuff away where possible.
     
  15. Just to finish this one off - thanks @Sev for your advice - in the end the fear of potential complexity made me take the safe route - so I did a deal with davedunlop for his OZ Gass wheels.

    Just have to wait for the front one to be made.....
     
  16. Couldnt you just have bought a wrecked, salvage bike... gotten wheels and many other parts for near the same price?

    Rex
     
  17. That was something I was looking for but no 959’s came up at the time.

    In the end i found a finance repossession at auction - still a good price compared to retail and with the added advantage of some nice aftermarket parts.

    With it not being a write off and having a clean V5 and service history a wrecked bike would have had to be really really cheap for it to have been a better deal.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  18. Good luck
    as per every thread like this everywhere...

    Pics
    Pics
    Pics
    Please...

    Rex
     
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