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Oil Pressure Light Below 3000rpm

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by Irogerh, Jan 29, 2020.

  1. Sounds like your rear brake is binding, the more it heats up the more it binds until you grind to a halt, have a look at the rear disc, it’s probably blue.
    PS could also be a front brake!
    PPS yes I know the brakes can’t effects the oil pressure light, that’s an unrelated fault.
     
    #21 Mark9, Feb 5, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2020
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  2. Thanks, that's interesting, I did wonder about that. I will check them both.
     
  3. First check is discolouration of the discs, if one is blue you’ll know it’s been binding, but it’s not guaranteed that there will be an obvious colour change, also you may find that the brakes feel free when cold, so take it for a 2 mile run, get off and carefully feel how hot the discs are, best to ride that 2 miles without touching the rear brake and use the fronts to stop, then check the rear brake disc for heat, then ride 2 miles back without using the front brakes (or at least use them as little as possible) then pull up on rear brake and check how hot the front discs are.
     
    #23 Mark9, Feb 5, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2020
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Thanks. I will do that.
     
  5. that is a shame on both counts although (as said) the binding sounds just like a brake binding, and can free off itself next time you ride it, if you are lucky. Rolling in neutral as you have done (preferably on a bike you already know well) is by far the best test for this, and as Mark says, you will only have to touch caliper to find the culprit and even careful inspection of brakes right now will almost certainly tell you, as there will be more brake dust on trailing part of caliper body. I wouldn't go as far as two miles Mark! - each to their own as ever. Re: oil pressure - could be several things and as said earlier, unwinding gallery plug(s)* come to mind but small chance it could be oil pump/pressure relief valve. Di you find anything on oil change/have you removed long filter sleeve yet? the bits found are often described as looking like nail clippings*.
     
  6. Chris, thanks. Haven’t got around to looking at the oil yet but clearly my next move. Will look at the filter sleeve.
     
  7. 03D74E3E-9717-4BB0-888B-F535138AFA5B.png 3B47B22F-090D-4840-B37C-98BEF36A0107.png Post a photo of the strainer once it’s out, I’ve seen various examples from long ribon like pieces of alloy to “finger nail clippings” as Chris described, it’s possible to have some metallic deposits on there though that are nothing to worry about, ref my post further up this trail it’s a quick job to check the strainer and you don’t need to drop all of the oil, if you find the rear brake is binding check you’ve got play between the master cylinder actuating rod and piston, move the brake lever with your hand and the rod should tap against the piston, this tells you there’s a gap/clearance, it shouldn’t constantly sit against the piston the gap is necessary.
    Here’s a couple of examples of debris on the gauze, personally I doubt you’ve got a gallery plug issue, but it needs checking.
     
    #27 Mark9, Feb 6, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2020
  8. Re the rear brake sticking, very often the plunger in the rear brake master cylinder doesn't return fully to the circlip, this can be seen with the rubber boot removed, in the past when I had this problem with the rear brake sticking the plunger was tight and not returning fully, I removed the plunger and carefully eased the inner plastic sleeve with a piece of dowel wrapped in fine wet and dry until the plunger returned freely, that was years ago and it's been fine ever since.
    Steve
     
  9. So, finally got around to draining the oil this w/e and extracted the filter which looks like this. Not much in the way of metal shavings but a bit more crud than I expected. Quite a bit of what looks like grit!! Is this more crud than I should expect to see? I wonder whether this might be affecting the oil pump in some way?

    Oh yes... and brakes are off for a refurb as they are the only bits that I hadn’t touched after 7 years standing the garage.

    0A9072A9-E444-493E-A370-64742830E032.jpeg
     
  10. It’s certainly got a lot more on it than my 900ss and M900 had, but you don’t know when it was last cleaned I suppose, there does appear to be an aluminium shaving or two in the debris but it’s hard to tell from a photo, for me it’s inconclusive but you really need someone that performed a lot of oil changes on these to comment, Nelly?
     
  11. This is the coarse filter that stops anything serious from the 'sump' getting round the oil system. Think of it as the first line of protection; if it's trapped there it's not going anywhere near your oil pump! Sounds like you may have binding brake(s) - probably the rear. It'd be good to find out what the idling oil pressure is meant to be and compare that with the pressure rating on the switch. Remember that the oil-pressure switch is just that, a switch. It is ON when pressure is zero and only goes OFF when the pressure exceeds its nominal rating. Really good to hook up a pressure gauge in its place so you can actually see what's going on with your oil pressure.
     
  12. I MIGHT JUST HAVE SOLVED THE OIL PRESSURE PROBLEM!!
    I realise that this may be tempting fate as I have yet to put the cover back on (and put my refurbished brakes back on too), but, I noticed that I had missed the rubber o-ring that sits over the oil-way coming from the block and which connects to the oil passage in the clutch cover - which of course also houses the oil pressure switch. This missing o-ring would explain the symptoms (i.e. it works while the oil is cold but gets progressively worse) so I am pretty hopeful that I have solved the problem. I will let you know.
    Thanks for all the help.
     
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  13. Sounds good, hopefully that’s it.
     
  14. Fingers crossed.
     
  15. if this is your 900ss, I had one a few years ago and lent it to my father who overfilled it. The oil light came on under this condition.

    Also, do you have an oil cooler? If the bike has been standing for a while, or the tap that is regularly fitted is inadvertently turned off, you might need to see if the flow is good, or even consider an oil system flush, if you didn't already do it when you recommissioned the bike.

    Just a couple of thoughts, but might be barking up the wrong tree.
     
  16. Just realised that I never finished this thread ...... the outcome was that the O ring mentioned in my last post fixed the oil pressure problem. Simple! Very pleased.
     
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