A pair on ebay with the correct part number visible here (the current generation) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-9...845480?hash=item2f412bb1a8:g:U28AAOSwnxdefwm9 New ones available from Moto Rapido for around £120. Not sure how different the 848 ones are, but the 749 and 999 ones also are fitted to the S4R. You can get replacements by the oem supplier that are around £100 and Chinese ones for less that at £40. 848 and 1098 do not, and have not, shared the same part numbers with the 999 but who knows, they may fit. When mine went down it took 30 seconds or so to start working after fitting the new coil as the ecu needed to clear the recorded fault which as suggested earlier will often shut down the injector for the affected cylinder.
Thanks Denzil,i saw them earlier and put a watch on. pretty sure it just the wiring at some point as she runs fine when she does,will take off that battery cover and get fiddling with the wires,but will probably buy a new pair anyways as mine do look a bit ropey now.
Imho, starting off fine, then breaking down with heat could well be the plug but replacing the coils with the later ones, especially for the front cylinder is definitely a good idea. Ducati didn’t bring out improved versions for no reason.
My multistrada had the10.2 earth to coil problem too been chasing it round for ages , my bike gets used all year round so the earth points & wiring get a battering nearly all my electric problems ended up being earthing related or relays. Good luck fixing it .
Skye Hook, did you actually swap the coils and run the bike to see if the fault stayed on the front or are you just assuming that the coils both work based on your diagnosis so far? If you had n't then you really need to do so now otherwise you could end up chasing a dream. The fault 10.2 (and sometimes 11.2 for the vert cylinder) is common on this bike and the most common failure is due to moisture getting trapped in the plug tunnel and corroding the coil from the inside, the second is a break down in the connector hence the change to the later version with the flying lead and after that are the leads and physical damage. BTW If you have an accurate multimeter the coil can be tested in 2 minutes to confirm it is a dud. If the coil that comes out is corroded then the coil swap is test 1.
He does say in post #11 of this thread that he swapped the coils around at the fault stayed on the horizontal cylinder. It brings to mind a similar fault my son had with his 916 Strada. From cold it would start on 2 cylinders the after about a minute the vertical cylinder would drop out. It took a bit to find the problem but it turned out that the loom wiring to the vertical coil has pinched very tightly to the frame by a cable tie such that the wire was broken internally. In the OP's case it could possibly be the ECU but in my experience they either work or the don't. Semiconductors don't usually go intermittent. It could be worth checking black 'Engine' connector of the ECU for corrosion. The relevant wire is a grey/blue on pin 38.
When the coil driver in my ecu first went bad, the cylinder would chime in every now and then again. However, it didn’t start ok and then drop out as in this case.
That must have taken some finding or you got lucky, had a BMW with a electrical fault but I got lucky finding it.
It did take some finding. Fortunately I have a 907ie which uses the same injection as the 851 but a P7 ECU instead of the P8 of the Strada. So we were able to swap components one at a time but the fault, which we had tracked to the vertical pot remained. We had ruled out plugs, coils and the ignition amplifiers. We also swapped the 2 timing sensors, although a fault with either them would have affected both cylinders we couldn't absolutely rule them out. That only left the ECU and the wiring itself. We were going to try swapping the ECU. The 916 should start and run with the P7 although not very well but it was worth a try. At was at this point my son's eagle eye spotted that the wires the vertical coil were very tightly pinched to the frame with a cable tie so he decided to open it up and have a look. Sure enough the wire from the coil -ve to the ECU was broken internally. There was our problem. The entire wire was replaced from the ECU to coil and the bike has been fine ever since. I doubt if the cable tie was a factory fitment since they usually use rubber ties but at sometime it had been fitted and pulled too tight. Over a period time, possibly years, vibration from the engine and road shocks had probably caused some minor movement of the loom which had fretted the piched wire until it gave way. It always fired up from cold but either heat from the engine and exhaust or maybe heat generated due to high resistance at the damaged point was causing to to lose connection after a minute or so. Much like a dry joint in a circuit board. Anyway we were pleased to have found the fault and permanently fixed it
Thanks all.I have bought two newer style coils anyways,as i got a good deal on some.The old front coil is really badly corroded,the top one not so bad,so will try those once i have sorted things a bit more. I initially took off the seat and tank and swapped the coils over,the front was not firing,so swapped with the vertical coil and same thing,old front coil worked fine in the vertical pot and this led me to assume that the coils are therfore OK,it is something to do with the spark to the front cylinder. However perhaps having a rusted crappy coil is not so good so that is getting swapped out anyways on both cylinders. Next i cut the loom close to the front cylinder and replaced the connector,noticing a slight nick in the blue wire which i thought may have been the issue. I replaced the blue wire with an old piece of wire form a bonneville loom,but i am now wondering if that is the right type/grade?.It seems to be more like 3mm than 2.5mm and i am not sure if this may be an issue? using the same old coils the same old problem,so now i intend cutting the loom further back and connecting all three wires to new bullet shrink connectors and from there to a new coil connector.then put on the new coils and see if that does the job. So i have bought 2.5mm wire for 12v at 30 amps,is that suitable? I wanted to get behind the battery box and check the ECU connection etc but i cant seem to get the bloody thing off the heat shield,is there a trick? undid the three battery box screws,but maybe those two below need to be undone too,but they dont seem to unscrew.
2.5mm or 3.0mm wire is more than adequate. Someone more familiar with the 749 series will be able to tell you how to get at the ECU.
Edit - @Skye Hook - you need to confirm that this is the same for ECU but on this example, pin 10 is Ignition Vertical and pin 38 is Ignition Horizontal
Skye, the heat shield is fixed to the battery box with 4 self tapping screws. When you are down there, there is a relay that sits in the muck stream which needs to be replaced as a service item as it is prone to failure. When you replace it relocate it and if you can, put it into some form of protective tube like a johnny or a rubber glove finger. Also when you swapped the coils did you check that the error code changed from 10.2 to 11.2 and did you let it run for a minute or two to allow the ecu to catch up and reset the fault condition? As I suggested earlier when replacing a dodgy coil the ecu does not immediately come back to life it needs to clear the fault condition before it will start injecting and firing again. If the coil swap suggests a faulty coil the ecu will pick up a different fault condition for the vertical cylinder as well as the cylinder not firing. BTW getting the battery box, heat shield and all back in is a nightmare so be prepared for some high levels of frustration. Your cable splice wire size is fine as long as it has good and permanent connections
The horizontal coil driver is pin 38 of the grey 'Body' connector with a grey/blue wire. The vertical coil driver is pin 10 of the grey 'Body' connector with a grey/ green wire. I will post up a more complete pin out with wire colours tomorrow.
The original self tappers on my 999 were a total nightmare. Once you have managed to undo them, replace them immediately with some decent quality new ones. I got some from Halfords and I could then actually get a screwdriver to fit, grip and tighten and loosen them with ease.
When working on your battery box, I thoroughly recommend wearing an led head torch, so you can actually see what you are doing.
