Morning all, just replaced the brush plate on my 10 reg. Multi. Obviously the left hand crank case was removed and I laid it on an upturned box in the garage while I repaired the starter. So far so good. So the bike has sat in the garage on its pit stand for just over a week. Yesterday I cleaned the exterior of the engine and then the mating surfaces of the case/ engine, refitted the starter, crankcase, battery , filled with fresh oil. Turned the key, dash lit up, a whirring noise (fuel pump I'm guessing) for a few seconds, and pressed the starter button. Engine wizzed over like a good un ............. did not fire . Switched off, tried several times- will not fire/ start. Checked for spark at front cylinder, I think I saw some sparks but it was difficult to see in strong daylight and the battery was going flat by then. I could smell fuel I think. I've checked all the fuses I can see, all good. I'm racking my brains with this, thinking I'm missing something obvious. I've owned the bike nearly 3 years now and never had a problem till now. It had a major service in October 19 and done a couple of hundred trouble free miles since. I've searched through the posts and the CPS is mentioned, apparently it has to be set correctly. I can't see how the "setting" has been altered but I will check it anyway. Do I remove that forward facing plug in the engine and check the gap there? Any suggestions will be massively appreciated, I probably won't be able to look at it till Monday because I am working 12.5 hour shifts today and tomorrow (Chorley Hospital)
Are you sure you could smell fuel? Are you sure there were no sparks? Both the sparks and injection depend on a signal from the CPS to operate. So if you have one the other should be there as well. It's very unlikely, if not impossible, that the CPS clearance would change, especially if you didn't remove it. Are you sure it is connected properly? The clearance (0.07mm) is measured at the plug you describe with the engine at the timing position.
Hiya Derek, many thanks for the reply. I agree, need to check sparks and fuel properly. If sparks are visible does that rule out CPS problems? Is there a timing mark to work to and if so, where, and what does it look like? Regards, Brian.
If there are sparks then CPS definitely OK. The Timing position is TDC on the horizontal cylinder with both valve closed at the star of the firing stroke. At this position the dot on the bottom belt pulley will be lined up with the line on the engine cover.
CPS on your multi is installed in the crankcase and isn’t disturbed when you remove the alternator cover. There’s no adjustment on this fitment. The CPS is mounted into the crankcase just forward of the rear cylinder on the left hand side of the motor. There has been instances of spark and fuel failure caused by starter problems, but I’ve not seen them on the 1200 multi. I’d go back over the connections first.
Y'know I owned a Multi 1200 for 5 years and had forgotten that the CPS isn't mounted in the cover. But as nelly says check the connections again.
In that case the CPS is in alternator cover. I'd still be surprised if the gap had altered but worth checking. It's also worth removing the CPS to check that there is no swarf stuck to the end of it. If there is clean it off.
Sorry to throw the curve ball... that’s a late reg for an air cooled The air cooled multis are the ones that suffer from starter issues killing the sparks. If you can, leave the plugs in and use a spare to check for sparks, so the starter is having to turn against the compression. If you have no spark, then remove both pugs and try again. If you have spark with plugs removed, then you probably have a starter issue. Another thing to check is the earth point on the front of the engine casings.
Many thanks nelly, I will try that tomorrow along with the jump leads from the car. I tried it last night and it fired once then just turned and turned. Poss order a complete starter from Electrex if everything else checks out ok. Once again thanks for everyone's help.
Battery on optimate overnight, tried to start fired once, smell of unburnt fuel, checked for spark with plugs in, nothing. Plugs out nothing. Plugs out, 3rd gear, crocodile clip from battery neg to plug, turn back wheel, nothing. ICU problem? Any way of testing it? Regards, Brian.
I meant ECU not ICU ha, if I buy the leads will I be able to read any faults on my laptop via jpdiag? Is the software free? Brian.
Hi all, just disconnected the CPS from the 3 pin plug. Across 2 of the pins there's a resistance of a steady 880 ohms, spin the back wheel in 6th and every so often it goes open circuit. Does this suggest that the CPS is OK? Tried it with the ignition on but no spark to be seen, even if the timing was a mile out it should still spark, right? Can anyone throw any ideas my way please? Regards, Brian.
OK, just tested the supply lead to the CPS. One is a good earth, the other 2 read 2.5vdc and 1.6vdc to earth with the ignition switched on and the engine static. Does this sound correct? Regards, Brian.
880Ω is in the right ball park for resistance. It's an inductive pickup so should put out a series of voltage pulses which would certainly confuse a meter set to read ohms. If you set the meter to read ac volts and spin the engine you should get reading while it is turn. Probably not very big, a volt or so. I have no idea. The earth connection is correct, it's a screen. The other two are a balanced pair that have no connection to earth.
Thanks Derek, I tried cranking the engine and the reading was just under 1 volt ac. Looks like the CPS is good, I'm running out of ideas now. Probably time to try and get it to the lenders. Regards, Brian
Could it be something silly like the safety circuit for sidestand, neutral and clutch lever? Is the neutral light on? Have you tried starting with clutch lever in? Does the pump prime?
Doubt it Old Rider, the engine wouldn't crank if it was stand or clutch and yes, the pump primes at switch on. Many thanks.
