I read a bunch of threads. My original question was going to be... what range/how high will it need to go to cover everything? I think the highest torque needed will be the rear axle nut? Correct? Well in one thread they mentioned 350nm for that. I am not sure that is correct for my bike. BUT There are also many threads across many sites that the rear nut is too tight... mechanic says looser... Yada yada yada. So 350nm equals 258 ft lbs. 2014 Monster 1200S is the rear nut spec 350nm? Out here in the real world, if my wrench goes to 250lbs will that be enough? I am about to purchase one for doing a chain adjustment (all old tools gone in Divorce) and do not want to buy something that cannot do both things. Still researching the correct socket for the front and rear... and whether or not I need a tool besides a breaker bar to get them off. Rex
The rear wheel nut on your 1200 should be torqued to 230 Nm which is 170 lb ft, well within the range of a 250 lb ft wrench.
And you ought to consider one or maybe two torque wrenches for the up to 20 and 20-50 ranges if you bother torqueing the lower range screws, otherwise you risk grossly overtightening stuff. The high torque wrenches are inaccurate and clumsy for normal torque settings up to say 70Nm. Pay careful attention to the specified torque using a lubricated or greased thread as unlubricated alloy threads, bolt head or washer faces will bind up in a heart beat at the higher settings and go overtight prematurely, result is a stripped thread or inaccurate torque setting
I was expecting to also buy one for the settings that come in as inch lbs. Please explain the greased vs Non and alloy? I have never seen separate settings for greased and Non. I that what you meant? I have only ever cleaned threads and or added thread locker. I have never used anti seize, although I do own some... I try to do things right because I generally tighten things perfectly, and then give it a little more and break things when I do not measure. Thanks Rex
Why would you be wanting to use a torque wrench when doing your chain adjustment? Or is it to torque up the SSSA bolts afterwards? Anyway as said above get one for the lower range and another for the higher ranges.
Answering your original query, a higher torque value wrench will generally be longer giving you more leverage. I chose to go 300Nm for that reason. Second bit, I have 3 torque wrenches covering from 10Nm which is what I do the front axle pinch bolts to (regardless of whatever anyone else says. I've had the pinch bolt casting fail) through the 30 to 50 range for things like caliper bolts and then one to cover things like clutch centre to rear wheel nut. Thirdly, high torque values tend over time to be very difficult to undo. The grease is I believe to prevent that. Andy
I have 3! A tiny one, a medium one, and one about 1 metre (at least long). I work on the basis that you can never have too many tools! And there is quite a divergence from a rear wheel nut and a tappet cover. Having said that, I can't remember why I bout the big f&*5 off and die one! May be the engine chain sprocket nut, or I just collect tools!
RexDangerVest: this may help if you haven't got it already (page 197): https://www.dropbox.com/s/9q7zf0t07po3bhf/2014 Ducati Monster 1200.pdf?dl=0
SSSA? Is that the t60 bolt I need to loosen to do the adjustment? then yes. I do have the PDF, My original question was just going to be... what is the highest torque in general. It was not easy searching through all of the file so I came here after finding what I thought was the highest. I have looked at some bicycle ones, yes. Hopefully @Denzil the Ducati will come back with the grease/non grease knowledge too Thank you. Rex
Sorry, I missed the last bit about the grease until I read this all again. So grease = Anti seize I imagine. Is there a general rule for when to and when not to use it VS thread locker? I have never used any grease or anti seize in all the bikes/cars and things I have repaired. My general thought is that near everything on any Vtwin could use a little thread locker. Not the clutch center? Not the rear axle nut? Rex
I'm currently bbq'ing and have already had a few beers. I'll try and provide a copy of what I have for the 1098 for a general guide probably tomorrow now. Andy
It should state on the torque settings list which strength thread lock and grease to use in all areas...
If you look through your factory manual they specify either a thread locker (Loctite 270 for example) of a specific type depending on its location, material, heat exposure and likelihood of being undone regularly, this acts as a lubricant when being done up that stops it seizing as you do it up. Where a thread locker is not specified they often specify a particular grease which for Ducati is usually a general purpose moly grease. In some applications like head studs it is sometimes specified with engine oil or clean and dry depending on the type of stud and a need to retorque after an engine heat cycle. For most general fasteners nothing is specified or required. The details are listed on the bike's factory torque settings pages from the factory workshop manual. On that they also highlight which fasteners have safety critical torque settings and usually put quite a tight setting tolerance of say +/-5% on the actual torque setting for those safety critical fasteners. BTW cheap torque wrenches are not worth the risk and all of them worth having should include a calibration certificate when you buy them.
Rex: The service manual states where/what to add when reassembling. It is critical to add grease where the manual says to so that when applying torque, you are doing it correctly; dry torque and wet torque are not the same. I'm guessing that for most home service jobs you are correct to assume that the rear wheel lock-nut torque is the highest you will need although as many threads suggest, to get the nut off again needs a pretty big breaker bar. As for thread-locker, again, the manual states where and which type. Don't put it on wheel nuts.
WOW Thank you all... For all the extra HOMEWORK! I will read more carefully instead of just skimming to see where the bolts or screws are. A habit of not fearing the work and most of it done on machines with a cage around me. So far all of my work (Just regular maintenance) of the sort I want to do myself has been done by a qualified shop. If you recognize my posts over the last few months you know I research the crap out of everything so I have a little time to learn how to do the work and what to buy... I do appreciate quality tools, but also strive for value. So I research plenty on what to buy also. All I have done so far besides add things like mirrors and power ports is clean and lube the chain. Soon it will be the... chain adjustment Air filter check (when I permanently route the Phone power under the tank to the bars) Brake pads (actually cant wait even though mine seem great) Really looking forward to removing the wheels for new tires etc etc I really do appreciate all of the quality and quick answers. Rex
@RexDangerVest SSSA = Single Side Swing Arm, I was referring to the two bolts that pinch the arm together around the elliptical hub and which have to be loosened and then re-torqued when adjusting the chain.
