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1200 DVT Rear Wheel Hub Removed

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Pete1950, May 18, 2020.

  1. This morning I have just removed the eccentric hub assembly from the swinging arm of my 2017 DVT Multistrada. It was getting hard to turn the hub to adjust the chain tension. This photo shows the moment of removal, before I cleaned it at all. There was some grit, dirt, and water. Although not as much as I feared, actually.

    I had to buy bigger circlip pliers, because my biggest ones were too small for the huge circlip which holds the brake mounting plate on.

    Now to clean all the parts thoroughly, grease them suitably, and reassemble.


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  2. When I changed the swing arm on my 1098R to a carbon one, I found a similar situation when removing my original arm. If I had kept the standard arm on, I had thought about drilling a small hole on the underside of the swing arm to allow water to escape. That being said, the presence of water didn't seen to have caused any issues with the hub as it can't get inside from underneath.
     
  3. Did mine a few weeks ago, while you have the hub out get the correct grease (it’s not cheap) and really lube those bearings, makes sense while it’s out. Then put back exact.y as you removed it and all will be good. A satisfying job all round.
     
  4. I discovered that the oil seal which protects the bearings on the sprocket side had been incorrectly installed from new. The bike is only three years old, and the hub assembly has never been touched before. The oil seal, which is a slim 58x72x4.5 one, had not been pressed into position straight so that one part was sticking up and thus the lip was not making good contact at that point. Needs a new seal, so on order as a Ducati part. Inevitably, the seal lies outside the normal range of seal sizes available from bearings suppliers. Hoping to get and fit it in a couple of days.
     
  5. I don't think so.
     
  6. New seal now obtained and fitted to the hub. It wasn't all that easy to get it to go in straight, so now I see why it was installed crooked at the factory.

    The wheel side of the hub has two big circlips, one internal and one external. The workshop manual (page 708) indicates that the internal one has to be removed, to take off the brake mounting plate and thus be able to remove the hub.

    This appears to be a mistake in the manual. It is the external circlip which needs to be removed; the internal one could be left alone.

    Am I right @Derek ? (or others).
     
  7. When i did mine a couple of weeks ago, only the large external circlip, never touched the inner, well only during the cleaning and re-lubricating the eccentric.
     
  8. Your right..
     
  9. There was actually less crap than I expected, bone dry as it already had a drain hole.
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  10. Did my 2013 MTS last year - also had to buy the bigger pliers! As per Mr Bounder, there is a small drain hole - looks like it doesn't take much to block it though. Suprised that a 2017 bike would still have the hole in the front of the swingarm casting that lets all the crap in, thought this had been addressed. I sealed the casting hole on mine with a small 3D printed cap - not cheap for what it is but fits well. Blanking the hole off should mean that you never have to do this crappy job again.
     
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  11. Big ring pliers are a must. Did mine a few weeks ago and took off the inner ring. Looked at it and saw outer ring which is the one that needed to be removed.
     
  12. Can anyone post photos of the new seal kit and type of pliers required please? Thank you. Stay safe ☣
     
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  13. Mine is a 16 DVT with 11k miles, I only had a small amount of crap in it, literally a sweep with her indoors toothbrush got it out.

    But I needed a decent set of circlip pliers, makes all the difference.
     
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  14. I used 13" circlip pliers easy peasy lemon squeesy
     
    • Agree Agree x 2
  15. Right.

    While I had the whole thing apart, I took the opportunity to stuff the void in the swinging arm with plastic, and sealed the apertures into the eccentric hub with 3 Bond sealant. Also put sealant in the crack between the pinch bolts. It won't stop the pinch bolts from clamping, but it should stop any dirt, debris or water getting in. Everything cleaned and greased with three types of grease (Castrol LM, Moly, or Copper) as appropriate.

    Today I have already installed the hub, the wheel spindle tube, and the sprocket carrier. Just about to attach the brake calliper to its bracket, with better bolts than the rubbish originals, and the wheel. Then to adjust the (now well-lubricated) chain and put back on the exhaust outlet, etc. And job done.
     
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  16. Yeah, forgot to mention earlier, I changed the furry cadbury's caliper mount bolts with 8.8 stainless, Robert and his wife Frances are my dads brother and sister in law!
     
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  17. Now installed, tightened, torqued, lubricated, adjusted. About to go for a little test ride to check all is OK.
     
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  18. Rode it. Really sweet ...

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  19. Does the internal circlip actually do anything? I'm in the process of taking my hub out, but I can't get the wheel spindle out, feels like there's a clip stopping it from coming out. Took the wheel, sprocket and rear brake off, just can't get the axle out now
     
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