Is there any mods out there to improve rear brake performance? Been back to Ducati they say it works fine.But just seems a little vague to me cheers. Steve.
If you try search function on forum you’ll find a lot of info on this topic. Best thing I can suggest is to undo caliper from carrier, the brake line etc, raise the caliper high as possible, leave overnight. Then bleed in this position ensuring all air comes out. You may need to twist/move caliper to ensure all air is expelled WHILST keeping positive pressure on the pedal. Have a look. It’s a well known issue..
Another trick I've found is to use some tyraps to hold the break lever down to the main stand when the bike is laid up for more than a couple of days. I do the same thing with the front brake and clutch (back to the bars). I also bleed the clutch and front brake from the master cylinder before releasing the pressure - usually just a small "burp" of an air bubble. Not so easy to do with the rear brake. It's worth bleeding the rear brake from the caliper every time the rear wheel is off, that way it's a easier to remove the caliper and hold it higher than the master cylinder.
@6274rico It's unfortunate as the rear brake issue is well documented as a poorly manufactured rear brake line banjo connection. There's quite a few recalls on other models ( such as PDF below) but not for us Multistrada and Monster 1200 owners. Unless you're ready to go the whole nine yards to replace the brake line which is a big job, bleeding properly once per year will help. Other things that will provide longevity is using a higher boiling point brake fluid such as Motul 5.1 or 600. Anything with an extremely higher boiling point (such as 660 or SRF racing fluid) will improve braking efficiency under extreme use but will absorb humidity rapidly requiring you to bleed more often which may defeat the purpose. That’s the trade-off. According to Monster 1200 owners, insulating the brake line from the rear exhaust heat has also been proven to help.
I must be in the minority as I reckon my rear brake is pretty good, if I press normally it bites and I can feel the bike slowing down, standard disk, brembo SA pads.
I wrote that for the 1200 guys as up until now my 1260's rear brake has been fine. I can't say the same for the Monster 1200 as that rear brake was non-existent for awhile. I had the rear brake line changed with no issues since.
I can confirm using high wet boiling point brake fluid (SRF racing fluid which was a bit £48) plus bleeding with the calliper above the reservoir and the alt rider brake pedal extender fixed mine. It took all three things to do it
Sorry correction = Castrol React SRF Racing Oil Brake Fluid makes a big difference, not the SRF. For the Castrol, see link.... Castrol React SRF Racing Oil, 1L: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
Yeah needs all three really... 1. Calliper held above level of master cylinder and upside down to bleed (to get rid of trapped air) helped 2. Alt Rider pedal extender (or equivalent to correct the toe-in needed around the clutch cover to reach the brake pedal) helped 3. However the Castrol React SRF high wet boiling point brake fluid made the biggest difference because the main design flaw is that the brake line runs too close to the exhaust. This cooks the fluid because once it absorbs water over time it boils. The Castrol doesn't boil with normal operating temperatures even in mid summer touring on the Med and pushing the bike. Back brake as good as any bike I've had after mods but needed all three to get it right.
