Garage Roller Shutter Doors

Personally I would do the following:
Make sure your window is barred from the inside and visible and the side door is like fort knox, don't bother with Electric as you are better double bolting each door to the floor or lower part of the wall - so if you need to undo the bolts there's no point in the extra expense of electric.
Some electric doors do lock/jam to prevent the door being lifted but not sure how effective they are - most can be broken into by jacking up quite easily.
I asked someone who gave me a price last year for a 'market leading ' door and he said yes you can jack it up but you would need to know what you were doing - like the thieves do I guess

 

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/garage-roller-door-recommendations.62852/

 

Be mindful of you go electric you need an alternate entrance accessible if power is down. I have to go thru my neighbours or over the roof on mine, but makes it more secure

As a guide, my 3.66m insulated & electric door cost £2800 plus fitting.

 

Surely you”ll height as the shutter has to roll into a roll. Least where I work we had to mount the shutter so it rolled up on the outside.

 

The standard aluminium roll up door with Insulation is pretty much the same whether you pay a lot or a little...

The guide tracks and motor and bar do vary in quality.

My house has a 4M x 2.2M and in the 8 years I have been there - I had to replace the attaching parts between the bar and door and also the motor drive unit and the bearings the other side.. it was £700 off ebay for the original door and I spent around £300 repairing it.

So as Bradders said - make sure its not your only access.

I strengthened the door in 3 ways

1. - Put stainless steel plates bent like a Z in behind the guide rail - Z is like 3 x 1 x 3 - where the first 3 is bolted to the wall - the second 3 and 1 support the guide rail (aluminium)

2. Put a 3 x 2 x 3/16 length of aluminium angle along the bottom bolted to the bottom rail of the door to give it more rigidity - from being bent in to push the door out of the side guides (one way of access) - I then fitted internal hasp and staple to that bar - so if I go away (I work away) then I lock the door down from the inside (another reason for the side access)

3. I changed the top supports from a simple strap type to a plastic hinged bar (6 off) - that goes over centre in the lower position to form a lock to stop someone lifting the door.

This keeps door looking standard on outside but stronger on the inside - so as not to draw attention.

Then I also connected the power via a switchable socket (from phone) so that as well as the remote control - I can also turn off the door power - just incase someone tries opening it with a spare remote or similar.

As for your side door - for security - you can get steel doors - look at Latham Security...go from simple plain to ones that are part glazed.

I had their early door and it rotted out on the bottom after 7 years - just changed them - new door is Galvanised - so hope it lasts longer....


As we all know - if someone wants stuff in your garage they will get in... as the doors and windows are not normally the weak points for entry and then when inside can use your tools to disable the internal security you fitted..

Then recently I fitted Blink XT2 cameras to the garage and outside the house. - battery - so no wires..

If you want that type of door (yes - if you have the room inside above the lintle for the box - you will gain a larger opening) and want security - buy the galvanised steel versions they use at factories.... but they do not look as good and for a home would attract more visibility that you are trying to secure something - but are much heavier and stronger... less able to be jacked and pushed in.

 

The thieves will get in through the roof. My father suffered twice this way recently.

 

I went with a Seceuroglide Excel due to the security rating. As already said, a lot of the doors appear to be the same but rebranded,
and on examination I can't see anything special about the package really apart from the deeper/sturdier guide rails.
Its supposed to have some anti jacking set up in the cassette etc and the door blades are thicker, but I reckon I could still get in eventually.
I guess where you live makes the biggest difference, as to whether the scrotes would be interupted or not.

It took a single bloke about 4 hrs start to finish including removing the old up and over door and the addition of cosmetic pvc facias etc,
so DIY shouldnt be a problem providing the order measurements were good.

https://www.sws.co.uk/homeowners/roller-garage-doors/seceuro-glide-excel/

 

Have you considered a sectional garage door ? Very secure, doesn’t need a lot of space, doesn’t swing out, I have recently fitted a Hormann door, top quality !

 

I've had roller shutter in the past but now prefer the sectional doors.

 

Yeah, this. Recently had mine replaced. Electric, fob, insulated, 120db alarm, manual override with big long metal spinny thing that goes through the wall. Ace!

 

We had ours replaced with electric rollers on Thursday. Very pleased, I just need to rig up a sound system to play the Thunderbirds theme as it opens now.
The roller sits above the lintel on the inside of the doors, so no loss in aperture height. Alarmed and needs some significant effort to break in so I'm expecting a saving on the insurance costs for the bikes next time around. The savings may pay for the system if I live for another 350 years

 

I've had 2, in the old house it had a sensor at low level that stopped it closing fully if something was in the way. My current one doesn't have a sensor and I have trapped stuff under it that got blown over by the wind as it closed.

And talking of wind, a previous neighbour had an electric up and over door (rather than a roller shutter) and when it was windy, that thought that something was in the way so it wouldn't open !

 

I've had my electric roller door probably 10 years. It's been perfect. It came with two remotes and they have a lock button on them so if someone is in the garage and presses the open button, it won't. It has a sensor it anything is in the way and the door won't shut. I guess things have moved on in the time I've had mine, but it's great.

 

Plus one on the sectional/tracked garage doors. Superior in all respects.
I have installed rollers, sectional, canopy etc.
Hormann were the best ones I used.
If electric, no other door on the building, an override system can be installed in case of failure.
Installation is simple tbh, goes together like meccano. Important part is getting sizes right for ordering and making sure their are no obstructions..

 

I got a quote a year ago for a 40mn thick insulated sectional door with no electric motor. Fitted £1600. If it had motor fitted it met Police approved security level for jacking etc. So might be better if your postcode isn’t a low crime one. Company supplying said if motor fitted it locks in closed position as motor is off and force needed to ‘push’ against it is considerable. Think it was a Horman.

 

Then watch for the size off the roller door when “rolled up”. Depends on space at top of aperture. If your having supply and fit, ask them to confirm minimum available height...just to be sure..

 

Sideways tracked doors available from Hormann too.