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V4 Pani V4 Oil Change, Help?!

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by JoePeps, Sep 26, 2020.

  1. Just part way through an oil change and I'm pretty confused! I think I've done everything right....

    - checked the sight glass with the bike sat for a few days, looked fine in between the 2 marks
    - ran the bike up to temp for about 15 mins
    - bike left for 2.5 hours for the oil to drain
    - left the bike to drain for about 3 hours
    - just refitted new filter, sump washer and sump plug

    So all going well, but I've just emptied my oil catch tub thingy into a measuring jug just to see how much has come out, and I've got about 2200ml?! Still a bit to drain out but talking a minimal amount.
    There was a small drip every 30 seconds or so coming out of the bike that's why I decided it was ready to go back together.

    The bike has done about 600 miles (3.5 trackdays and a few road) since the last change at Ducati. From looking on the web it should be 3.5 litres in there?!

    Have I just not left it long enough? Now thinking I should put back in the same as come out, run it up for 10 minutes then leave it for a day to check the sight glass and top up to suit? Or should I take the sump plug out tomorrow morning and see if it's got anymore to give?
     
  2. Leave it draining overnight
     
  3. I tend to put it in 6th and manually turn the rear wheel, this pumps some more out.
     
  4. Right. The V4 is a strange beast when it comes to oil changes. I’ve done loads now so here’s what I do....

    I always change the filter too. Leave it to drain overnight.
    When you’ve replaced the filter, put 3 litres of fresh oil in. Fire up for a few seconds and turn off. Leave it overnight and check the sight glass. You may need to top up ever so slightly but it won’t be much. :upyeah:
     
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  5. And may I just add.... it’s so, so easy to overfill. Beware. The sight glass level takes fekin ages to settle. This is due to the V4S model having a complex baffle configuration in the sump. Not sure why but @nelly will know :):upyeah:
     
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  6. Ok thanks.
    I took the plug out before work this morning and there was a reasonable dribble come out and then back to steady dripping so it’s got a few more hours before I’m back.

    The other jug has settled at 2150ml after draining overnight so hopefully a fair bit more comes out this time to make me feel a bit better!!
     
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  7. Yeah I have read that which is why I bought a lovely new measuring jug! My plan is just to replace exactly what I take out as the level was fine, then like you say leave it for a day to fully settle and check.

    Considering it’s just an oil change it’s a fair bit more nerve wracking than when doing it on my S1000RR!
     
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  8. It’s bloody witchcraft with the V4S! I’ve never known an oil change require such patience and precision. On anything.....
     
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  9. you've just got to do it over a period of drain overnight.... monitor how much you are adding... and give it a chance to settle to the sight glass..
     
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  10. Yeah it’s just being regimented I guess that it’s going to take time and not rush it, all a learning curve!

    Got to say the design for taking the filter out is one of the worst things I’ve ever seen
     
  11. So when you take your bike for service do they keep it for 2 day?
     
  12. No they don’t....!

    I think I messed up a bit letting it settle before I drained it, no reason for that at all that I can see.
    It’s been draining for about 6 more hours and got less than 100ml out, so will fill up with what came out and then check the level.
    Can’t really see any reason to start it up and let it run for a bit to check the level either?
     
  13. You start it after you put in the oil to refill the filter and oil galleries that drained.

    So after you put in what you believe is the correct amount - start it.. leave it warm up for 5 minutes - then turn off and wait for it to drain back to sump (10 to 15 minutes) before you check again.
     
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  14. It takes a whole day and the first job before anything else, is to drain the oil. Andy
     
  15. Ideally with you dropping your bike off the night before ... warm so it can be left to drain...
     
  16. OK filled up with what I took out plus a little bit extra as the new filter was dry, I had my scales but didn't bother as the old oil was cold same as the new tub.
    Ran it up for about 8 minutes and sounded fine and running as good as ever so now tucked up. I'll check the level tomorrow after work and add a bit more if needed.

    Final question I have is how are you supposed to torque the sump plug up when there isn't enough access for a socket between it and the exhaust?!
     
    • Disagree Disagree x 1
  17. Crowfoot spanner on the torque wrench for torquing the sump plug. Don’t overtighten. It’s 14Nm for reference with a dab of sealant on the threads.
    The oil change is a pita for a workshop tbh. With the engine hot, the level can’t be taken true for about 4 hours imo. Maybe I’ve convinced myself, but leaving the bike on the side stand seems to speed it up a little. Warming the motor up prior to draining serves no purpose other than extending the job.
    We drain and weigh the oil. It’s pretty reliable and saves us time. Still best to try and leave overnight to get true level and get it right.
    The issue is caused by the scavenge pumps. When the motor stops, so do the pumps and oil has to rely on gravity to run through them to get back to the sump.
    Turning the motor over in gear helps, but I’ve resigned to patience and weighing the oil method.
     
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  18. Thanks for that, great info. Didn't think abut the crowfoot spanner, will get one bought now.
    Can you recommend a thread sealant mate?
     
  19. I use the grey Threebond.
     
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