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My Engines Got To Come Out And Be Split

Discussion in 'Hypermotard' started by Felstmiester, Jul 7, 2020.

  1. Give your comments please fellas. As bearings are in tip top condition I’m not going to go to the lengths of replacing them but still toying with having the swing arm sprayed. Only prob is it’s textured. It’s got a couple of stain lines but I’m thinking of just putting it all back together and getting a carbon swing arm cover. Let me know what you think

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  2. I would leave that well alone and pop it back together, looks ok to me.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Satin carbon cover is best.
     
  4. Cheers guys. Think I’ll just re greas all the bits up and re fit it and keep my eye out for a carbon cover in the future.
     
  5. Bit of an update. Spoke to Simon at Race engineering today. He started stripping the engine on the 19th as promise and the culprit is 4 teeth stripped off one of the gears. As well as the rebuild the plans are to have the heads ported while they’re off. I’d really like to put race cams in but I’m not willing to cough up the amount of money they’re going for new. Spoke to loads of people with mixed reviews on going for a lightened flywheel so not sure about this yet. Balanced crank is on the list though. Then to keep cost down but performance up I think I’m going to go for the mwr filter that replaces the top of the air box. Definitely plans for some other little bits while it’s all apart like the ceramic bearing for gear shift etc ( cheers comfy ) but yet to get a final costing for the engine work. Watch this space.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  6. The culprit that’s going to cost me a fortune

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    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. I may have my modded airbox & MWR lid & filter for sale as i am going stacks & pod filter route if you're interested?
     
  8. Oh yes Mate I’d be interested :upyeah:
     
  9. I’m getting depressed now lol. Although work on my engine was only started on the 19th of last month it seems to be dragging. Spoke to Simon a few weeks ago and he was soldiering on building the bottom end after receiving the new gearbox. I was kinda hoping by now it would be at the stage of porting the top end but haven’t heard from him so it’s just a case of being patient I guess. It’s killing me! The bikes in bits in the garage and it needs a few bits doing to it. Fork seals ( I’ve already got them ) needs a sprocket & chain kit. Just can’t get motivated on it.
    I went through a ocd stage a month or so ago and stripped everything, cleaned everything in the parts cleaner, stripped the spring off the shock cos the plastic coating was looking a bit crap and sent that and a few other bits off to be powder coated. Now I’m bored and have no motivation
     
  10. Keep going man, you can do it!
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. Hang in there pal, its gonna be a transformed beast, you will soon find the love...
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. I am in the same predicament on my 916, I now have the engine out of the bike and it definitely has a leak from somewhere, also needs the engine cases painting but at 3k this puts me off.. Is there ways to make this cheaper, I believe i could strip t he whole engine but wouldn't fancy putting the gear box , crank shimming and new bearings in.. debating getting a local engineering bike shop to do these bits.. tough decisions ahead, hope yours goes good pal
     
  13. If the engine has to be stripped due to mechanical failure then fair enough. But it’s a costly job if your only doing it to spruce up the casings. For just the seals, gaskets and bearings needed for mine it was £933.
    As you mentioned. Even when mines rebuilt I’ve still got the drama of trying to get the shitty flakey pitted engine casings, barrels & heads to deal with. Of cause the right thing to do is collect the bits from engine builder while it’s apart and sort something. This is more difficult than it appeared. Firstly it would royally fuck up the timescale of said engine build. Second. There’s no easy way of getting parts blasted that won’t leave even a minuscule bit of grit behind to potentially work it’s way around your newly built 3k plus engine and do damage. Even vapour blasting has grit so it only leaves ice blasting and if you go that route it can be very expensive.
    I’ve just come to the conclusion I’m going to have to go down the wire brush and rattle can route
     
  14. Well things are looking up. Spoke to Simon @ Race Engineering yesterday. He reckons bottom end will be completed by the end of this week. Then the porting of the heads etc can start.
    I had a conversation with him regarding setting up the bike on the dyno after it’s run in. I brought the bike with a full termi system but with the exception of a race ecu. Due to the latter the yellow light is constantly on. Due to this & the fact of the head work we came to the conclusion a power commander would be a better way to go. This way apparently there is more scope for setting up fuelling etc.

    roll on next summer lol
     
    • Like Like x 2
  15. That would be a shame....mine was taken down to the crankcases, sandblasted, cerakoted and built back up....2 years on its still as smooth as.....
     
  16. If I could find someone local ish that did the Cerakote I would consider doing the barrels, heads etc. After watching lamb chops latest video on his hyper project I wouldn’t wanna risk sending in the post lol.
    Got a final cost for engine. Although not done yet. Bottom end ( refresh ) gearbox, new clutch, piston rings, gaskets, seals, bearings, gas flowed heads, barrels, valve clearances, collets etc £2500
    On top of this obviously bike will now have to be set up on dyno. So it’s turned out to be pretty costly but hopefully worth it.
     
  17. Its all back together now.....but, that seems expensive...my total build including cerakoting with a replacement and balanced crank only (i say only) came to 3k....
     
  18. Not back together totally. Bottom end all built up.
    I know what your saying. But don’t forget that’s including the gearbox I brought off Johnny fireblade on here and new clutch. Suppose it depends on engine builder and down here in Hertfordshire/Essex things seem to be a ted more expensive for some reason.
    When I finally get the engine in I’ve then got to have it set up ( dyno’d ) I think I’m going the power commander route as Simon’s said he’d do me a good deal due to money I’ve spent. Just need to keep saving the pennies
     
  19. Dont bother getting a PC.

    Get your ecu mapped when dyno'd
    Save even more money
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. I initially thought this. But!! The nearest place to me is around an hour + ride and minimum I’ve been quoted is £400 from any of the dyno’s. If I go the PC route it’s only up the road, it’s being done by the same fella that’s built the engine and will work out roughly the same. ????

    Oh and I’m waiting for HYPERDUKE to sell me his MWR filter box.
    All so!! I’m up for recommendations here. Due to the fact a snapped chain has potentially cost me £2500 I’m in the market for a sprocket & chain kit. If the unspeakable hadn’t happened, I would definitely be going for a 520 conversion. But due to now shitting myself in case it happens again I think I’ll stay 525 for the added durability. I just don’t trust eBay these days with fake inferior parts flying around. I would like a bit of bling ! Gold chain, maybe a bit more bling rear sprocket. Not sure if it’s worth going the quick release renthal carrier ? I see JT do one that fits renthal sprockets for around £70. Would appreciate any recommendations and prices. Also feedback on going up a couple of teeth on the rear ?? Although in the near future I’m thinking about going to a 60 profile rear tyre. Feedback on all the above please.
     
    #80 Felstmiester, Sep 29, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2020
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