The CTMOTO is similar and that's why I went for it (plus it was pretty) but the Laser socket is even better because it has guides for the front wheel nut as well. It certainly is easy to slip off and for that reason I much prefer this sort of socket to the more normal type, as you say.
I don't know how to link to that old thread..... It was started by "daddypew".... And was titled " Front Wheel Nut Fractured And General Corrosion Question" Ger
Thanks Simon. What I'm finding is there are two common price points - about £40 and £80 in your money - but none of them explan why they are worth the extra. The one thing I know to look for is the hardened (black head) and a head that wraps either side of the bar, rather than a bar that has two arms either side of the head.
Price is dependant on Brand That does not mean one is better than the other... but an indicator Facom - generally makes high quality high expense tools Same as Beta / Snap On / Stahlwhile / Wira and many more Thats not to say the cheaper on unbranded are poor quality... or inferior... you just take your chance. Personally all my hand tools are Beta or Facom or Snap On... but I am a tool junkie... and probably have 15 sets of spanners in garage and 8 socket sets..... Why... because I can.... Then I probably have another 1 1/2 sets in the house... for the day to day... Like everything in life... pays your money... takes your choice...
I sometimes tighten then loosen. Tbh I have had the same problem as you when I bought one of the alli ones and only did by hand! I now have laser hardened one!!
Thanks Ger, found it. Interesting that the combination socket should be thought to be inferior. The guide rings and the customised shallow depth - to match the shallow profile of the front and rear nuts - are supposed to be the reason why it is superior to normal sockets. Supposed to be far better in preventing slippage under high torque. But your experience is something different again - scary that the front nut would crack given the fairly modest torque. I'll certainly keep an eye on mine. Pete
I think the aluminium ones are preferred if you have aluminium or titanium nuts because the softer metal will do less damage to your shiny nut. But the tool itself will wear - that's the trade-off. The harder sockets are the no-nonsense approach, probably the tool of choice for the OEM nuts, and the tool to have on hand if even your aluminium or titanium nuts seize. Good to have both available. And the rattle gun the armageddon device, save for the last resort.
If it were me I'd get one of those Laser sockets, 1/2"-3/4" adaptor & a 3/4" torque wrench. Teng do a decent enough torque wrench, which is around 850mm long. It should be quite easy to get to the required torque with that length wrench. Although you might be able to buy a suitable 1/2" torque wrench it will physically be a bit too short to make tightening any nut to the Ducati torque easy. My Triumph rear wheel nut is around 146Nm & my 1/2" torque wrench is about as tight as you'd want to go with that length wrench.
I actually already have a pretty good 1/2" torque wrench which is rated to about 350Nm. It's not easy but I can J-U-S-T!!! tighten to 230Nm with my left hand (I'm right handed) while standing on the brake pedal and pulling down on the edge of the seat with my right hand. The procedure traditionally ends with..."Click! Oh thank f@#k for that!"
You are lubricating every part of the thread & the conical/flat faces when assembling the nut?? Essential for application of correct torque and subsequent ease of removal. Workshop manual has recommendation but if that's not available, use a thin smear of 'normal' grease.
Hi Keith yes I'm cleaning everything, then applying fresh coat of Shell Gadus S2 V220 AD2 (the one Ducati specifies as Grease B). I am able to get the nut on and off OK, just the socket is deforming around the square drive.
To the OP. I had exactly the same. Brought the stainless steel socket and after several uses with a rattle gun it showed the same deforming on the inside faces. I then purchased the laser item and never looked back. Used it loads of times and it never showed any deformation. In the end I labelled the stainless one as don't use with a rattle gun and put it under the seat incase I ever got stuck and needed it if I needed to get a tyre changed away from home and kept the laser one in the toolbox for normal use. Hope this helps
I have contacted CTMOTO and they said they'll consult their engineers but they've never had anyone complain and that includes some engineering shops that use them. So apparently I'm Robinson Crusoe.
Mine distorted in the drive hole with a normal breaker bar. Stopped using it before something gave. Went to a conventional 55mm socket with 3/4" drive. Never used an impact gun yet.
I don't have a ducati anymore but will have a dig through the treasure trove as I think I kept the CTMOTO one. If I can find it I will take a photo and also send them a message. I am sure this is a common thing and not bespoke to a few lucky ones.
I use a normal black impact socket and have never had a problem. Compressor is set at 9bar, I hold the wheel with one hand, air tool in the other and off she comes. Socket has been used many times, no sign of any damage.
