TPS reset should be fairly high on the list of priorities if not done already. What throttle opening do you see without engine running, throttle shut?
Thats how i accessed it on mine. I had to buy a set of narrow feeler gauges. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yato-pro...0-gauges-taper-0-05-0-5-YT-7222-/181342882320
Cheers Guys - much appreciated. CPS and feelers ordered. Throttle position shows three degrees ( ignition on - not running) and air and engine temps 5 degC and 3 degC respectively which seems about right this morning. There is a plug to remove to access the gap with an feeler. I'll look in the manual as to how to set timing position - is it straight forward ??
The TPS on these bikes is set by software. The throttle stop is mechanically adjusted at the factory and should not be altered. Wherever the butterflies are at the time the TPS reset is carried out is set as the closed position with whatever degrees are set in the ECU firmware, so it is important that throttle is closed when a TPS reset is done. If the throttle stop has been meddled there is a procedure for getting it back where it should be. Timing position is where the horizontal cylinder is at TDC with all valves closed. This is the point where the dot on the lower cam pulleys line up with the line on the clutch side engine cover.
Many thanks Derek, do you think that I need a TPS reset; does three degrees sound right to you ? Very clearly explained BTW !
I've no idea what is correct for your bike, every model appears to be different. It won't do any harm to do a reset but the the throttle MUST be fully closed and if it changes to a different value then it must have been incorrect.
On my 2004 monster 1000ds which is open loop it’s set at 3.0 degrees via JPDIAG. I believe on the closed loop 1000ds engines with lambda sensors for feedback it’s 3.4 degrees. That’s from memory when I was working on my own monster.
Here’s where I found this info some years ago it’s from Brad the bike boy help files. Extract from Brad . “This nominated idle setting is specified as degrees of throttle opening. For example, the 749 is 1.3 degrees, 999 is 2.3 degrees, 800 is 2.7 degrees, open loop 1000 is 3.0 degrees, and closed loop 1000 is 3.4 degrees. This figure is not adjustable except at ECU software level, which pretty much means not at all with the 5.9M and 5AM ECU.”
Cheers Geoffduk, very useful ! I'll leave it alone, and in anycase I cannot see TPS reset in IAWDiag, which is to be expected given your info. That is unless "Reset autolearning parameters" is the same thing ? I don't like pressing buttons when I am not sure of the consequences !!
Here’s the front end if JPDIAG The value shown under TPS gives the present position and will change as you rotate the throttle. The pull down menu test/reset I believe from memory is where you reset the TPS. When you got the licence info from JPDIAG it would include the TPS position expected for your ECU. In my case it was 3 degrees. With engine off but bike on and connected it’s a simple case to enter tests/reset and you’ll see the TPS reset angle for your bike. Without turning the throttle simply press reset.
Cheers JPDiag looks a lot more sophisticated than the IAWDiag I downloaded - I'll give it a try. More pressing concerns right now I must be doing something wrong - when I read Derek's advice "Timing position is where the horizontal cylinder is at TDC with all valves closed. This is the point where the dot on the lower cam pulleys line up with the line on the clutch side engine cover." I turned the engine and got the dots lined up, went to LHS and could see no marks on the gear wheel. Tried a few times but no result - there must be a cutout in the gear for the probe to pick up. So did it the other way - looking from LHS at the gearwheel and turning engine until I saw the two "thin" teeth recessed back. Went to RHS and the marks are 180 degrees away from the crankcase nick. Tried this a few times but always the same ?? At the end of the day as long as I set the probe 0.6 to 0.8 mm at the two recessed teeth I will be OK ? Sorry to be a numpty !!
Here’s a pic of my engine at HTDC reference to what Derek said. Further check would be to remove spark plugs and check piston at TDC.
No! The raised teeth would hit the sensor. You set the gap against raised teeth section. Here is a pic from the S4R manual. Water cooled engine but same sensor and associated parts. Note the Caution.
Cheers Geoffduk, many thanks for that, mine is the same but as regards setting the CPS gap it could be done on any part of the "full width" of the gear ?? Measuring the length of the probe minus shim, and the distance from the alt case flange and the gear wheel give a difference of just under a mil which is correct ??
Yes, some of the manuals say to check at the timing position but this is not critical as long as it NOT at the gap.
If the gap checks out, electrics, TPS etc and all the other parts you’ve replaced I’d seriously consider booking onto a dyno before you continue spending money. It would be ideal if you have a local friend that loans you parts but failing that you can learn a lot from a dyno run especially AF ratio especially when your bike cuts out which will highlight problems with timing, fuel pump , lambda sensors and obviously fuelling. I have a local dyno guy that’s helped me a lot to pin point the problem cheaply without throwing unnecessary expensive parts. A good dyno guy is worth their weight in gold. Remember you can still fix the problem but with direction.
Just read earlier in your thread reference to John Cellier. I know John and I’m sure he’ll sort out your problem if it comes to it. He’ll have duplicate parts to change out but wouldn’t rule out a dyno run. With a closed loop system like yours they can’t alter the AF but maybe highlight the problem.
