It’s an historic thing iirc, some objected to the term s c o t c h as apparently it’s derogatory and racist so the forum software rewrites it as Scottish
Yup, not allowed to call them s cot ch, I expect the n word and words for the travelling community are also blocked.
In seriousness...for advice. I would prep the surface with wet n dry so the paint has something to bond to. Use high quality rattle cans, and defo use a proper spraying handle on the can. Cheers Grant
There are a few painters that do trackday fairings, I've used Adam at Trackday Paints (Facebook), it isn't as expensive as you think and he does all the prep and supplies the paint etc. The finish is much nicer and well worth the money, hassle free. By the time you have got all the supplies/mask/time etc it's much easier just taking it to the professionals.
Much easier but not as satisfying. Good to learn a new skill on track day parts as matters so much less if you cock it up.
I agree, there are some who will do a full fairing and seat, one colour, £300 all in. Quality? Not too sure but must be better than home painted with Halfords best
Surprised you haven’t considered the guys behind Banjo on Hambridge Lane. We spoke about him a little while ago. Andy
I’ve painted a few bikes. They normally pass the 10 paces test but when you weigh the cost up... primer x 2 Colour x 2- Lacquer x 1 (petrol resistant) Prep stuff like filler, sand paper/wet n dry Something to spray it on The covers for everything else in the kill room Face masks Probably close to £80 in materials as minimum.
I have for sure mate, but just as I live in Swindon, and I’ve been working at home since March it’s all about getting over there to have a chat with them
I'd get it done professionally using two-pack. You will never achieve the same level of finish, depth, or toughness from rattle cans on a large surface such as a fairing. Well, that's not quite true, you might get a good finish with rattle cans if you are really proficient and experienced, but it will take many coats, cost more than you think, and it won't last. The paint in rattle cans is different to the paint that you use with a gun (more solvent, less opacity, and usually an entirely different composition) so you will never get a deep and lustrous finish that stays looking great. With a two-pack gun finish, it's oven cured and the finish is stable and has a tough surface. With rattle cans, it might look great at first, but over the coming days and weeks the solvent in the paint gradually evaporates to leave a much less glossy finish, more prone to scratches, scuffs and other surface damage. No doubt others will have different views, but that's my experience anyway, and I've used rattle cans as well as pro equipment for many years on different applications, from bicycle frames to cars.
I don't agree Wheelnut. Preparation and patience is the best route IMO. Plus of course some advice from Sev..... ....and some 3000 and 6000 grade pads. Plus some Meguires polishing liquid followed by an appropriate top polish. A lot of this is with rattle cans including laquer......spot which is which.
