Multi 1200s 2013 -58K miles Error on display "ABS2 and "Battery". Bike starts ok and runs good but errors come up and display backlight switches off. Checked voltage on battery terminals. Ignition off = 13.6v Engine running idle = 18.7 volts. Removed R/R and took diode measurements and according to a couple of videos I get the right readings on yellow wires. 0 0 0 .460 .459 .463 0 0 0 .098 .099 .102 Although readings of R/R are ok could still be the problem? What else could be cause of the overcharging
The readings of the Reg Rec can’t be correct, if it’s feeding 18V to the battery at idle it’s screwed and will boil the battery! Two things will happen then when you apply revs, either the voltage to the battery will drop, indicating it’s already started melting connectors and providing high resistance or it will increase to over 18v and will be in the process of melting things. Hate to say it... charge voltage to the battery at idle of anymore than 14v is an issue waiting to happen, ideally at idle you would want it only sending about 12.8v to the battery, just enough to maintain levels, then at revs maxinb at 14.8v so only ever varying by around 2v The really modern stuff like Panigales may even have less variation than that when healthy, especially for lithium
The diode test only proves that the rectifier part is OK it doesn't prove the regulator is regulating the voltage properly. I've never know a faulty stator to cause an overvoltage but as an additional test, check for resistance to ground between any of the yellow wires. It should be infinite. And with the engine idling check that there is no voltage (ac) between any yellow wire and ground. Do your voltage tests across the battery. I'd expect about 12.7V ± 0.1V with the engine off and 14.2V - 14.5V with a good regulator and the engine running at a fast idle.
listen to this guy ref numbers! Sounds like he is more qualified than me To comment, mine is based only really around having an issue with a 748 2 wire where the stator broke down and took the reg/rec with it. The guys on here all helped me with diagnosing the issues and that’s where I learnt this from. My view is still that a failing stator would like under charge and fail to supply the voltage needed rather than over charge as it has no built in regulation
Always listening to Derek - he is a fountain of knowledge!! @Derek -just took some more readings more carefully. Ignition off = 12.91v Ignition on = 12.45v Engine on - idle = 18.45v Engine rev to 3000 = 18.4v - 18.8v Yellow wires (connector from stator to R/R) resistance to ground - 0 Not sure how to test ac between yellow wire and ground - connector is sealed when connected to R/R. Logigally stator must be OK. Is it safe to disconnect the R/R output connector (red and black wire) and measure voltage output directly from the R/R ?
To measure the stator disconnect the plug from the regulator, this will allow you too measure across any combination of the yellow wires and between any of the yellow wires and ground. DO NOT run the engine with the red and black disconnected. You will destroy the regulator, although from your figures above I'd say it's knackered anyway.
So although the rectifier part (diodes) seem to be OK the regulator part must be faulty. I guess next move is to source another Regulator and take it from there - will update asap
I have been having similar bother, and have a RR from a 2008 S2R Thou which was not the problem which I could lend you if that might help ? It has a white plug with three yellow wires and a black plug with two red and two green wires - any use ?
MOST COMMON FAILURES: 1) The stator can quit producing power usually due to the insulation failing. This is commonly caused by age or overheating. 2) The regulator/rectifier can have one or more rectifier diodes fail, which causes the output to drop to zero, or it can have the regulation circuit fail which causes the output voltage to be unregulated and liable to climb past 16Vdc. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10153909-9999.pdf https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073
@drax dave - thanks for the kind offer but I think yours is different. Its better I use exactly the same type to avoid introducing other issues in the equation. @aero - i think is case 2 - all diodes seem ok so it could be the regulator side. Thank you for the links - useful information.
Final update All working fine now! Engine on - idle = 14.4v Engine rev to 3000 =14.4v Riding bike revs range 1000 - 7000 = 14.4 - at all times the voltage output was a constant 14.3-14.4v As a temporary measure I bought a used one from ebay just to double check there was nothing else before buying a new one. Unit bought is FA012CA which is the previous version of the current FA012AA. More than likely most of you are aware of the correct diode readings but I will list them below for the benefit of others as most of the videos and documents out there could be misleading - they are correct but not for our RR - FA020 - FA012. They show the same Forward bias readings on both -ve and +ve terminals of the RR; ours are not This is what to expect from ours (diode meter setting) Forward Bias= +ve Meter lead to -ve RR Lead/connector - -ve meter to yellow wires = 0.461 0.479 0.474 (around this range and similar to each other) Forward Bias= -ve Meter lead to +ve RR Lead/connector +ve meter lead to yellow wires = 0.111 0.110 0.110 (around this range and similar to each other). My thanks to all for the help and advice
