Hi there im hoping someone maybe able to help with a problem on my beloved 996. We were coming off the St Malo ferry and after 50 yards the bike cut out and rolled to a stop. When the ignition is switched on the pump wasnt runnig so first of all I changed the pump relay. That didnt work so the pump then the last connector before the pump was changed. I have now been told that it might be the Datatool Veto Evo alarm thats fitted. I believe it can be bypassed so wondered if anyone knows how to do that or if there are any other ideas because im at a loss:frown::frown:
Have you checked the underseat fuse and fuse holder for the relay? Mine melted and although it still worked it wouldn't have lasted long.
Oh god. As soon as you said datatool i guessed the problem. If you ride in all weathers i'd bet you a pound it's corroded inside and buggered. When the same thing happened to mine i took the whole thing off and threw it in the bin. The main immobiliser wires were going to the big 30 or 40 AMP (cant remember the rating) fuse at the front of the battery tray. But obviously if you've told the insurance it's fitted, and start removing any part of it's function, you could be left uninsured, or without a bike if some scumbag lifts it.
Yep sure have checked and changed all of the bits on the circuit. Just need some advice on bypassing or removing the Datatool now. Thanks for the idea though.
Mark my 1999 996 has a fuse for right hand side switches. If it is out bike thinks kill switch is on. Check that fuse.
Removing Datatool is quite easy Mark - can you solder? - you will need some additional bridging wire and some heatshrink insulation. I can P.M. you if necessary but basically if you unravel all the aftermarket insulation tape* you will see that all they have done is intercepted the route of 3 possibly 4 power/ignition-related circuits. All you do is carefully remove one by one and bridge the break with new wire. I have done about 5 now and the reason I suggest new wire rather than snip and use what's already fitted is that I have found half the time that the joints are pretty poor or aged and the wire (usually black) used is inferior, which is really saying something on an Italian-wired bike . *battery disconnected of course.
Hi there and thanks for the idea all of the electrics work. Ive checked lights and they all work. Im pulling whats left of my hair out trying to get this sorted but at the moment keep coming back to the alarm.
Yep the starter is turning the bike over and I can hear the fuel pump relay click in when I turn the ignition on but alas no pump. Thanks for the thought Mark.
it's probably time to try an ECU swap as although everyone is normally quick to pounce on this as apparently being the last logical thing to try, it is also possible that it's the culprit here.
Hi Chris the ecu has been checked the only thing I think left is the alarm so just need to either bypass it to see what happens and if it is that then to get the thing disconnected and removed. Thanks for the idea kind regards Mark.
If the relay is clicking the ECU is not the problem. Although the relay is clicking it may not be making a connection. Have you tried another? The output from the relay also feeds the coils. Have you got sparks? If not either the relay is faulty or there is no +12V supply to it, in which case check the 20A fuse that feeds it, the connections to it and that you get 12V on both sides of the fuse. If there are sparks check the continuity of the brown/white wire from the relay to the fuel pump. The alarm may break into that wire to isolate the fuel pump, although I'd have though it more likely that the alarm would break the wire from the ECU to the relay as that would also isolate the ignition.
Derek, often an immobiliser switch line is wired into the orange/blue feed from the kill switch somewhere in the vicinity of the 8 way connector under the seat front RHS, this feed is the one which triggers the ECU to earth the two coils in the relays energizing everything. Some alarms also break into the unswitched 12v supply direct from the battery to the ecu, fuel pump and coils. However if one of the two relays is switching there must be power on one of the two circuits. Mark in both cases it should be easy check the supply with a multimeter. First are you sure it is the fuel pump relay that is clicking and not the ecu one? If it is you need to check for 12v at pin30 on either relay or in pin A of the 3 way ecu power connector. If you have voltage at those points then the problem is most likley in the ecu as you have power in all the right places. If there is no power you need to check the circuit continuity back to the battery from the ecu power connector pin A