1260 Torq Setting On Chain Adjustment

35 Nm

 

If it's like my MV then it's critical you don't exceed the specified torque on these as it can cause premature hub bearing failure. Anyone know if the same is the case with the Ducati SSA?

 

As I understand it you’re right to get the torque setting correct as it can damage the hub.
Also I believe you should tighten the bolts evenly. Don’t do one up tight and move onto the next.
Apologies if that’s like sucking eggs for you.

 

That is just 26 foot pound. It is hard to believe that that is enough to stop the massive torque of the chain from readjusting itself.

 

IIRC on the MV it was lower and some experienced long term owners with engineering qualifications used an even lower figure. The amount of friction that clamp creates across the circumference of the eccentric hub is significant, even with a fairly low torque value.

 

Apologies as not wishing to hi jack this thread but.....

….if your out on tour, and racking up the miles its possible you may need to clean and or adjust the chain. (I do this at home easy enough)
What's the best way to take care of this task on the road. Carry a cleaning kit, chain lube and a torque wrench ? Just drop by a local Ducati dealership and ask them to clean and adjust it ?
I ride fairly gently and don't pop wheelie's etc, so hopefully I could get some decent mileage before this is necessary for me.
Just trying to absorb as much good info as I can before I finally set of to Italy

Cheers

 

Before going on tour, I always take the bolts out, clean the heads and then put them back in making sure they are the correct torque. I then get a Tippex Liquid Paper pen (other brands are available) and put a white line on the bolt head. If you have to slacken the bolts off on tour to adjust the chain, then when you tighten them up, make sure the white line lines up. I know this isn't 100% accurate, but it's SO much better than guessing.

 

If you make sure you clean, lube and correctly adjust the chain before setting off on a tour, you shouldn't need to adjust it again on an average tour mileage of 2 or 3,000 miles ish. Modern good quality chains don't often need much adjustment. I just lube mine every five hundred miles when on tour. You could give it a wipe off with a rag too if you wanted. I never do and have always had good life out of my chains. All assuming you have a good quality chain such as DID Gold.

 

Agree with Groundhog's comments, the most important thing is to get rid of the OEM Regina chain and replace with a quality item such as DID 530 zvm X ring gold and you're good to go.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Shows you how much I don't know yet !

I've hardly done 100 miles on the bike since I bought it last month. First impressions..
1) That seat will need re upholstering ASAP ! I need to sit right back and I'm constantly sliding forward and down.
2) I'm noticing the slack in the throttle, so the throttle spacers may be done soon.
3) If your saying the stock chain is not the "best", then I'd possibly consider a new chain and a gearing change (go to 42 teeth at the back ?) as a future mod.

Have 1260, will spend

 

Keep your eyes Open for a touratec comfort seat, they come up for sale on here fairly often.

 

Noted

 

I'm an awkward git when it comes to comfort. 6'3" tall, 35 inch inside leg and a bony arse !
Think I'll just pony up the cash and get a custom seat made

 

Touratech seat, as Twin4me mentions, is the way I went. Different profile and gripper material. So much better, no longer slide forwards. Firm but supportive and comfortable, I find repetitive days in the saddle when on tour are now not a problem whereas the original OEM seat had my bony backside smarting by the first petrol stop and getting back onto the bike, even the following morning, had me wincing.

 

Those are three mods well worth doing. They all improve the bike substantially.