So, did my first trackday at Snetterton today, but I seem to have a possible issue with downshift. I've got some theories I'll be investigating, but I'd like to know if this has happened to anyone else and if they have any suggestions. Symptoms - downshifting at high speed is either unpredictable or just doesn't work, seems okay at lower speed. Sometimes jerks when it 'auto blips' in a similar way to when you manually blip and add to many revs. Using the clutch does work. Seems more predictable on lower speed downshifts (corner to corner, not end of long straights). Upshifts fine. My theories - new rearsets (CNC, not cheap ebay ju k) plus changed to race shift. Poor angles meaning poor leverage, however increasing the angle further would mean the nut would then touch the swingarm. Could also be poor adjustment again meaning not enough force? I did adjust after my first and then second sessions to see if it improved then again before my last, could need more, but I'm not convinced on this other than for comfort as it didn't really change anything. Another theory is I'm just not used to race shift, but again, not convinced, I've adjusted to it quite easily. The other theory was that I wasn't fully closing the throttle properly. I made sure I 100% did this to rule it out as I know it can happen on the odd occasion. I'm planning to change back to road shift, test then if the problem goes away, I'm being an idiot somewhere. If it does still happen, I'll put the oem ones back on then if it still happens, it must be the DQS. Else it's something to do with the installation of the CRC rearsets and I'm still an idiot. If all else fails, I'll have to pay someone to check, but I'd rather try some basics first. Any further suggestions most welcome as I'd rather check all at the same time if I can.
I can’t help on track riding until I get mine on there but I’ve spoken to a few now who have auto blip on the 1299 that sometimes won’t blip, general feeling is that it’s either that the bike can’t blip with the required revs because when you downshift it would be at the limiter, or that there’s a partial opening of the throttle, like a small bump rocking your hand on it. I find on the road though my blipper can push on really badly, I use the bike in high engine brake mode, it’s even worse in the other settings, I was hoping it wouldn’t be as bad on track, looking at the 44teeth inboards it blips lovely all the time for him. finally I’m sure I read on an RSV4 post about the quick shift sensors needing to be at a set angle versus the shift input arm, maybe similar for the Ducati system?
is the gear spindle arm still in same position as when running std setup or have you spun it? ive seen peeps have probs with sensor switch catching on frame when spun
also if you reverse the std setup you have to hot wire the switch ( or buy the correct wiring part to reverse the shifter actuation ) could that be the issue?
Cheers both for the replies, much appreciated. Last year it was fine, I did 3 trackday on it with standard set up so wouldn't worry too much if you're keeping standard rearsets. The issue I have in diagnosis is that I've seen loads of forum posts and videos where people have intermittent issues with DQS and eventually fail on 1299/959, but most seemed to have been fixed by a software update. So it could be my poor installation or a fault. The only way to really test is step by step. I did think it could be the angle/length of the shift arm. Funny enough, my dad's best mate works for Aprilia as one of their top engineering bods (don't know his title) and I asked him to have a look yesterday in person. He couldn't see anything obvious in the installation and suggested to test adjustments, changing down later (similar to what you said @Phill748 in regards to the revs being too high) then if no joy test in road shift and then oem rearsets. @Noste500 I was going to try spinning the spindle round one or 2 notches as I've not changed it (the installation didn't say to), but changing to race shift would have reduced the angle by 4-5 degrees I would have thought, but angles are still around 90 degrees or so and it's intermittent, but on my list (near the bottom of it as I have to remove the clutch master cylinder). I don't think it's catching, but I'll check as you mentioned it to be sure. I thought the kit was to use the standard set up in reverse shift which electronically changes the pattern vs the CNC rearsets which mechanically does it? Or have I overlooked something crucial here? It would have failed 100% I would have thought? I'll ask Ducati in the morning though to rule out.
I’ve heard from mates that do trioptions that the v2’s don’t like going down the box from higher revs.. it wasn’t from @Spence but he might be able to shed some light perhaps
Does the V2 have a tyre calibration similar to the V4 ? I know on the V4, the tyre calibration is essential for all the electronics to work in sync. Andy
That would be good to know @Advikaz , thanks @Android853sp, it does. I synched late last year when I put the new boots on. Will be getting some new ones for next trackday so I'll give that a crack too.
I was advised by MR to calibrate before the start of each track day and if there was a temperature change requiring tyre pressure changes (I was in Spain), to recalibrate before the afternoon session. I didn’t ride my V4 on the road for long enough to find out if I needed to do it regularly, like once a month. Andy
Not really, it’s not like I’m racing and I can use the morning sighting lap to do what I need. Open pit lane with a total of 40 riders on the trip has its benefits. Andy
Quick update - Took the front sprocket cover off earlier and found this (sensor with blue, yellow and white wires) looser than a 60 year old hooker. Believe the gear position sensor? If so might be a contributor to my issues. Once I'm out on it next I'll update again, but surprised it was as loose as it was. Considering it wouldn't even be looked at for quite some time if a normal service schedule was followed.
I posted about this very thing on my v2, are they actually loose though or just the covering not very good?
Yeah replied to your post (it's why I took the pic). It wasn't a bit loose, it was like someone had just popped the bolts in a few turns and just forgot to do them up.
Still a bag of shite. False neutrals, not changing etc so had to resort to just using the clutch. Wanted to turn the blipper off, but seems you can't. Out of ideas now.
yeah you can only turn the whole lot off, not just the blip, mine blips even when I use the clutch which is really annoying.
Update after a day at Croft. Installed translogic quickshifter which is definitely better. Still hasn't completely fixed my issues, but instead of deciding to get stuck between gears or doing nothing at all it sometimes, but not often, doesn't let you downshift unless you use the clutch. This was easy to deal with and didn't really hinder me as it was predictable whereas the way it behaved previously scared the shit out of me. I also found that @Android853sp suggestion of calibration helped (apologies for saying it did nothing before). The reason I noticed is shift issues got worse after a few sessions, re calibrated tyres and was definitely better again. Bit crap though IMHO to have to do this so often, but a good tip. There's still some funny gremlins in there somewhere I wish I knew the answer to.
