It's the most knowledgeable forum in cyberspace My BMW r1200r is having problems with the key sticking. It started last winter, was ok in the summer, and has started again. I'm not sure whether it's a combination of wet and cold, but it's really starting to become an issue. Is it worth spraying anything into the lock? The key just won't turn and needs lots of jiggling, and sometimes it won't turn off. Could it be the electronic key-lock failing either? Any advice would be really gratefully received. X
Might be worth asking it on the UKGSER forum is my 1st thought. And other items they may ask is how many years/miles/usage as it could just be worn out. My tank cap lock on my 86 GSXR is a mare to open after locking as its just plain worn out so I tend not to lock as it doesn't need to be to stay shut, luckily. PS graphite from a pencil rubbed on the key may also help but oils can gum up a lock if not specific for that purpose. Disclaimer I'm not a locksmith.
Try this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133675349927?epid=19034189482&hash=item1f1fabf7a7:g:yAMAAOSw-jhUAHmq
Flatty, dirt build up around the cylinder can force the cylinder components to misalign, the best way to fix it is remove the cylinder, strip it down and clean it all up. However that is not always that easy. Try a dry ptfe based lubricant such as WD-40 Specialist High Performance PTFE Lubricant 250ml | Halfords UK as a cleaner/lubricant. Ideally if you can at least remove the lock assembly it will be easier to spray that into the barrel and you can drain out the resulting muck. If you are lucky the barrel will have a drain hole on the bottom (as most of the >10 year old Ducatis do) which allows fluid to run out and you can simply do it in situ, although the hole can get blocked particularly if unsuitable lubricants (like normal WD40) have been used which leave a greasy residue to trap shit in the base of the barrel. Do not spray any lubricant like normal WD40 into the cylinder (as often suggested on the internet) as it will make the issue worse (even though initially it seems to work well). Edit: Have a look at this video Fix And Lubricate A Sticky Lock And Key - YouTube which is one of the better ones on you tube just now.
pretty much identical to Macca, "mileage" could be an issue and worth studying key for rounding and wear. You are bound to have tried new/different key? but obviously could be only half the problem depending what's worn, if wear is even the issue here. I respect what you're saying Denzil, but I rarely use a spray with a propellant here myself but i'm a big fan of graphite/Graphogen used sparingly. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332568414908 expensive but unless in the trade or assembling an engine every month, will last your whole lifetime. I purchased mine about 40 years ago.
WD40 was recommended to me by my local Suzuki dealer, at first i thought this was wrong as i've seen all the don't use WD40 etc on ignition locks online but the Dealer told me thats what the use on customer bikes.
yes, that simple normally but I get the feeling yours won't be, so as said:- what mileage has the bike done? does the key show signs of wear? have you tried another key?
No oils or greases. Clean the key shaft. One stroke of a HB pencil on both sides of key. Old toolmakers/ clock makers trick when dry fitting and disassembly. Graphite will not create a grinding paste. Seems to be temperature related from the intro,mucky grease build up?. Lock has a drain hole in the base. Quick squirt of well directed brake cleaner and try the pencil trick. Do not force a lock if it does not freely move. Try second key. WD is water dispersant. Not a lubricant with any real value.
Mileage is 30000. 2012 bike. All weathers. Key is pristine though. Lock was replaced for a new one (entire barrel and key) in 2018 because it was nicked and recovered.
Its not freezing though. Wet seems to do it. I've been putting a plastic bag over the lock and it's been a small bit better, but still very sticky/catchy. The key looks pristine.
The last bit could be a clue then, and I’m guessing pre- stolen key/lock combination didn’t give you problems. I don’t know anything about the design on your bike, and only a hunch, but it could be that the locking part of the assembly beyond the barrel got slightly distorted when stolen. If you can find an exploded diagram showing assembly, it could be worth putting it on here for us all to see.
Do both your keys work smoothly on the other two key points? Fuel cap, seat ? The locking cam may well have been distorted when the bike was stolen. I assume it was stolen with the headstock lock on. The barrel replaced but the cam maybe not. Damage to the cam will keep the tumblers under slight pressure giving you the stiff notchy feel. Locks are reasonably precise machined parts. If your key fits smoothly elsewhere Chris is on the right track.
Cam mechanism is separate on keyed systems. £48 from Motorworks plus postage. You can see the bottom of it from under the headstock. It is replaceable. If you remove the barrel and the barrel works freely the cam is the culprit. How to do it is on Google. Same basic system as the 1995 on Bms. All parts are available.
Year of your bike? Frame number. Make a note and send an enquiry to motorworks for locking mechanism. They know BMs. Find the website on google. Very helpful people. You can call them on 01484353600. Used them since the 80s.
Thanks very much. The keys do indeed work fine on the other locks. It also works fine in the summer. I think it must be water ingress into a damaged Barrel exactly as you say. It's been not too bad since kept dry. I think I'll ask the mechanic to take a look as I'll have a few bits left over if I do
