Has anyone done this and could provide tip & hints, tools used etc to make a successful job? I have a plastic trim piece (ASA?) from the Raptor that is pretty much unobtainable that needs saving. And as a special treat for Ducbird the photos were taken on a couple of bins...
I bought a draper hot air gun. You also need to know what type of plastic it is so you can buy the same filler rods. Better still see if you can find another knackered one and cut it into little strips to use as filler The first job I did was to make a front bumper cover for a 986 boxster grafting together a knackered 996 turbo bumper and knackered 986 bumper. Since doing that I bought a hot riveter that you can rivet the broken pice in place then finish with filler rod of the same plastic
I bought myself one of these for a repair I need to do. There are plenty of YouTube videos showing how the different staples are used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B096FDDSBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as above basically, if plastic fairing is the "wrong" type then plastic welding just will not work. Cagiva used a really bendy, polythene type for early fairings, and this will not bond together by heating. Have to say, your fairing does look like that type, often semi-opaque and (as said) bendy without fracturing.
If that were mine I’d use superglue and baking powder or bread soda, it’s the same as Q bond but the powders with Q bond are grey or black and you need a white powder. once set, I’d get an electric soldering iron, just a 25w is fine and they’re cheap as chips, let it heat up then apply it as follows. On the inside of the piece, start at one end and push it into the plastic, withdraw as soon as it begins to melt the plastic and has gone in about 1/2 the thickness of the plastic. Pull it back about 1mm and repeat the process, repeat & repeat, for the length of the piece gradually stitching the two glued pieces together. Do it n a well ventilated space though as both the molten plastic and the cyanide given off from the glue are probably not the best in a confined area. The combination of the superglue, baking powder and you melting/fusing the two parts together will ensure it holds for ever.
Paul.. a 25 watt soldering iron?.. are watts universal or are some greater than others? can only speak from doing my own but it's more like 80 watts minimum for any panels i've done in the past - even in the heat of summer i know I would struggle with 25.
My shitty old cheapy soldering iron is only 25w, admittedly it takes about 15 mins to heat up but once heated up it does the job just fine. For sure a more powerful one like 80w will get up to the necessary temp quicker. Ps. I just checked and a 25w soldering iron get to around 340c at its tip .
The plastic is ASA or "ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate aka Acrylic Styrene Acrylonitrile) is as tough and dependable as tried and trusted ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). But ASA is much more UV-stable than ABS – so it performs better outdoors" & it does look like you can get welding rods for it. I saw those staplers but wasn't sure how well they would work with just 3/4 mm thick material - plus one of the pieces is thin like a splinter and the other needs to be attached perpendicular to the main body.
This does sound like the best option for me... but may well use the Q bond because white is the base colour of the trim and not the finished colour. And beside 'ol Reggie the Raptor is a bit of daily ratter so the look may be enhanced
I would staple the pieces together then use a soldering iron to melt the crack together (with or without filler rods) and reinforce with baking soda and super glue (assuming you don't want to buy a hot air gun. They are expensive but useful for many other jobs)
