When you greased it did you check the spyder spring was FREE to turn on the spacer/washer with the small lip ? put some grease on this edge so its not dry and the spring can turn free around the spacer/washer with the hub as it moves up and down. brian.
you call it help........i call it rollox, lets give it all the acid test. Has it been of..........er, help? No Whys that then?
despite your open criticism of others that have offered advice your post describing use of a Vernier gauge isn't necessarily of any help either. Now I will agree with you, sometimes mis-information does crop up on Forum chat - I remember not so long ago someone adding to a thread saying that two Ducati bikes were identical as far a geometry was concerned but forgot the small point of the difference in wheelbase between the two - now that was Bollocks just trying to think who the poster was now.. :smile:
if you dont understand the use of a vernier gauge in this instance then perhaps your HELP is not of HELP here really at all, just as much as you not understanding the difference between providing HELP, and actually confusing the issue for the OP. hey ho......
just to repeat - quick to point the finger, but yet to provide a definitive solution to the problem - ever considered Politics?
have you considered the search option............it was to the best of my knowledge only recently discussed......] ]
There you go took two minutes post 36 and post 39 http://ducatiforum.co.uk/f2/749r-dry-clutch-11660/index2.html
now if you could only turn back time and replace above post with post #39 of this thread - think how much typing it would have saved, not to mention the ill-feeling Andy.
Its not brain surgery.......a simple search would of sorted it and avoided all the red herrings and condescending stuff. Think how much typing it would of saved if we eliminated the rollox chris! clutch issues are the new tax disc threads..............
Well whats been going on here then whilst I've been away. Just got back now from an event and guess what Andy, my clutch is a DP 6 ramp slipper (road based version ) now as I've said I've completely stripped it , greased the ramps , there is absolutely no wear anywhere , you know how everything works so you must know that its a simple mechanism, it rises nicely and smoothly and as I've said no wear on the baskets teeth at all , so regardless of the plates being in I'd say it's fine. Ok then you put the plates in ,in the correct order , which isn't brain surgery, (a brand new pack OEM from Ducati) ,now with the plates in the bike wont engage neutral , the only way is to switch the engine off. I have removed the dished (convex plate) which is 1.5mm and the clutch will slip (obviously) so I have replaced that with a 2mm plate and it works perfectly . You may say well your previous dished plate must have been warped , Nope afraid not I have checked every plate ,friction or otherwise I own , which is now about three different packs from different sources. When I add the dished plate from any of these packs it causes problems . Regardless of whether you are a maestro of all things bike related I'd like to say in this instance mate you aren't here so your input is noted then filed in the forget it draw.
So you still havnt measured the clutch pack installed on the bike then for a definitive set up, all you have inadvertantly done is add 0.5mm of height to the pack but still dont know what height it is on the bike .............. PS i dont give a shoit whether you forget/ listen / ignore! still, keep plugging away pissing in the wind, until you check it correctly you dont know exactly where you stand, mind you the good thing is you appear to have ignored most of the rollox too! PPS l'll ring and tell Ducati to stop putting dished plates in their clutches as you have obviously found a design fault.........................
PJ, I do believe the clutch pack goes in a slipper clutch in a different order than a normal clutch, you have remembered that haven't you? (I think you start with a steel plate I think?)
sorry Dave but this is wrong and exactly what i am talking about. If you start a slipper clutch with a steel as soon as the slipper works once the first steel will drop off of the inner hub and completely and permenantly disengage the clutch until you take it apart again to remove said plate! my last post on this thread..........all, knock yourself out!
Don't want add to the ruckus, ok I am...:wink: Think this is the link Andy was referring to I may have posted. Motorcycle Slipper Clutch Operation and Adjustment FWIW - When I fitted my STM I went with stack height as per the instructions....BUT, I have taken note of the top of stack to top of hub measurement.... I guess one is relative to the other...:smile:
Hence the 2 "I thinks" and ?, I knew if I got it wrong someone who knew would correct me, it was just to make sure he was aware they are different. :wink:
Absolutely I am aware that it is a friction first ,this is Bucci's (take a look) sequence ,I have followed this and every other combination plus adding and subtracting plates, the std non slipper pack height is 38.5 mm my slipper is 36.5mm (its a road version ) the race version is 41 mm , I am running 37 mm because the the dished is replaced by the 2mm driven , don't tell me I don't know stack heights I fuckin dream them now , I am telling you that it works without the dished far better than it does with , and that is as I've said trying dished plates from numerous packs all off which have been checked for warping (non are) , and yes I know how to check for warpping. My clutch springs are also fine and checked for loss of tension , which you obviously know how to do as well. So when all is said and done if this is not a problem for others then it may be specific to my make of clutch or maybe there is something else that happens to be happening to my particular clutch
Hi are the clutch springs going coil bound ?Also the spacer you got with your slave cylinder for the push rod should not be fitted . As Your bike has the long push rod anyway ? Hope this helps
