So been over to the TT for a week and first decent trip out on the bike since I bought it about a year ago, in prep I gave it a full service Inc plugs and air filter even though it’s only just touched 10k, bike ran absolutely spot on and flowing up the mountain it was absolutely beautiful apart from windy corner lol Three little issues popped up though over the week. 1 was the standard exhaust big outer cover lost one screw and the middle one came loose too, I’ve since thread locked these and hoping it’s sorted but wondered if anyone else had this due to vibration? 2 the on/off home ignition button wouldn’t always turn the ignition off until I played with it a few times, some times instantly and others took a few presses, I know it will be the switch but has anyone else had issues with these at all and can they be cleaned inside etc rather than replaced? 3 front brakes was spot on however I found at low speeds I could hear them making a horrible rubbing grinding sound at a certain point on the disc, no vibration, pads not down to metal etc and I had it a few months ago so resat calipers etc. All little things and going to replace feont pads and switch probably but wondered if anyone else ever had these issues. What a bike though for touring, seen so many multi’s over there and was great to take a bike this year that was matching and passing many superbikes and rode so nice on other floeing roads of the island
Welcome back. The switch you describe went on my 1260S Multistrada in the south of France last year. Symptoms were that having turned the bike on pressing the starter button switched the bike off. Occasionally, to start with, it would start OK, though this was for only a few goes before it would consistently just turn the bike off again. Not having the tools to get into the switch, a tiny torx, it was a dealer job. We tried dosing the switch in WD40 to try and flush it out to no avail. Thankfully the guys at Ducati Nice sorted it and did me a solid favour by taking a switch off a customer bike in the workshop (I paid for a new part to go back on) rather than wait the three days of so for the part. We were leaving the next day. Cost was, ISTR, €140 plus half an hour of labour. They took at least an hour. They got a solid tip which they were happy with. The internals of the switch on the 1260, I doubt if the 1200 differs, consists of a flexible ribbon type circuit board with integral micro switches. I guess mine had broken down and was cross tracking between the circuits. Maybe possible to repair but in all honesty replacement is probably the better course for reliability. Have you tried bump starting your bike, it's far from easy and usually takes two people. Unfortunately I wrote the bike off the following day after 25,000 miles of ownership...
for sure mate, we take the enduro’s over out of TT, I actually prefer the Manx gp To the TT myself, less busy and all those classic bikes are mega Do like the TT for the mountain being one way though when idiots aren’t getting it closed every ten mins
shitter mate sorry to hear that, what you riding now? Think I’ll replace the switch, good to know others have had issues with it too
I think replacing the switch is best course of action. @Hugo Magnus might want to sell you the one from my old bike, he has the wreckage. I couldn't find any reference to this as a common fault so a used part should be a more cost effective fix. Suprised you found mention if it... If on here it might have been me. Back on a 1260 Multi with a Pikes Peak edition. Every cloud and all that
Regarding rubbing/warped disks. It's a fairly common issue with the 1260, at least from what I've seen and have my self suffered from over two MTS 1260's. I've only recently solved the problem by upgrading my wheels and callipers, before then, I had changed disks, pads and even removed and reinstalled the forks but nothing seemed to have made a difference. Right now, I have Oz Gass wheels, stylema brembo calipers, red brembo pads and series oro disks. This seems to have entirely fixed all my weird little issues with the front, such as the feeling of warped disks. Which, by the way, ducati won't do anything about as the tolerance margin for warping is considerable imo.
I agree with what @freshage says. My previous 1260S Multi did this, no detrimental effect when riding but annoying when pushing it around with a feeling that something's not right. Put up with it for 25,000 miles and then got a Pikes Peak, same setup as the 1260S with M50 callipers and stock Brembo disks, and the problem doesn't appear to be there any more. having said that changed pads a few days ago to Brembo red and yet to ride it...
My 1260 Enduro drags the pads a little like has been mentioned above, which can be a little disconcerting when moving it about. I have however found a simple way to reduce it, but not eliminate it, which I discovered when mucking about with the brakes on my 1000SS which I've converted to Radial Forks/Calipers. Leave the Caliper mounting bolts a little loose and only nip them up whilst holding the front brake on. That ensures that the pads and pistons when pushing on the disks are settled into perfect alignment/pressures. I know the Caliper mounting bolts are a snug fit into the Caliper itself, but there is always a very small amount of movement between the Caliper and Fork bottoms which can cause misalignment, but not enough to cause braking issues. I found there was a lot more movement perceivable on my 1000SS with aftermarket Bolts which were slightly smaller in diameter. It's worth a try to see if it gets better.
that windy corner is, errrr, windy, its very noticeable in a car, one thing i hate as much as the rain is really strong winds, been blown sideways a couple of times, without the lean, its scary how those boys do it in dont know
Another tip - Take a hammer to the front discs! A Rubber mallet is best Spin the wheel slowly and tap round on the edge of the disc itself. not on the sides. This frees up the floating collars between the disc and the hub and releases the brake dust and grit that collects in the collars. I also give them a wiggle with a screwdriver in the hole on each collar to make sure they are free if one is stuck. Doling that on a monthly basis keeps the disc able to float and reduces the annoying squeaks and groans.
Yep, I learnt this tip from somewhere, not sure if on here or not, and have used this when nipping up calliper mounting bolts and prior to torquing to spec.
cheers guys, sounds normal with the brakes then, they brake spot on with no judder, just the silly rubbing on part of the disc but I did try that trick as ive always fitted brakes back on that way holding front brake on while tightening bolts up and I think it did sort it but ive since had a pair of Pirelli angels fitted which seem awesome by the way and pretty Sure he didnt use same method putting wheel back on.
