So I either need to book it in somewhere, end of July is the soonest, or chance the ebay abs sensor was bad and splash £154 on a genuine new one and hope that works?
These symptoms sound suspiciously like an overall charging/electrical supply issue. It’s unusual for that to happen, so don’t worry about that at this stage. Bearing in mind the symptoms you describe I think it’s worth checking the output of the charging circuit at various engine revs. Simply connect a multimeter, on DC volts, across the battery terminals, start the bike and see what the voltage reads once the bike’s started and idling, should be around 14.2v. Take it to 3000rpm, then 6000rpm then 8000rpm, the measured voltage should remain around 14.2v - maybe a very small fluctuation but not much. That’s a test I’d do at this stage. If the r/r is putting out too high a voltage it would explain the warning lights you get and the over voltage error code you got. It’s worth the couple of minutes it will take.
I did check the voltage yesterday 12.3v before starting, dropped to 10 something while starting. Low 14's at tickover and 17 something at 3000rpm. Think the new regulator is cr@p?
Id say that’s your problem. there’s no way the r/r should be pumping out 17V, that will cause all sorts of issues. I’d install a new r/r, test it and go from there. I’m fairly confident you’ll find that will solve the ABS warning light and all other issues. If not we can address them from a position of knowing the electrics of the bike are stable. Don’t buy a 2nd hand r/r, get a new one and make sure it’s MOSFET technology. My go to for r/rs these days are Ultimate Rectifier but that may not be suitable for you with them being based in the Netherlands. Electrexworld in the UK are always reliable too. It’s a good idea to test the AC charging of the stator whilst your at it too, just in case. We need to understand why a new r/r failed so quickly, just bad luck, or something else? Disconnect the plug with the 3 yellow leads. Set the multimeter to AC V 200V range. Start the bike. Measure the voltage across the 3 yellow leads that go back to the stator. Call the 3 pins A B C, Measure the voltage across A & B, then A & C then B & C it should be around 20v at tickover rising to around 80V as you increase engine rpm to around 5000. The exact figures can be found with some googling but they’re in the ball park. I doubt there’s anything wrong with the stator but, again, for the sake of a 2 minute test.
So another rectifier has gone, had a cheapish one as the UR one got lost in the post. I've now ordered a multimeter to try and check the yellow wires as something must be blowing the RR's.
Mates triumph tiger was doing similar things and when I went over I found it was pumping out 17-18v when revved and was obviously spiking the ecu making the speedo light up like a Christmas tree!! Replaced the rectifier and been spot on so hope that’s your issue too
The running voltages are 26 ish at tickover then 80at 5000rpm across all yellow terminals. O.3 ohms resistance and no apparent insulation issues. (Thank God for youtube). Am I missing something or were both of the new regulators rubbish. The UR one has arrived but I don't want to put that one on if there is a fault Im missing.
Those voltages are in the right ball park for the stator output. As long as there’s no corrosion in the stator to reg/rec connecting plug they will flow through to the r/r which will then do its job of rectifying the a/c voltage to dc and regulating the output at 14.2V. There’s nothing else in the mix so there’s nothing else you can check at this stage. I’m confident your first r/r failed through old age - I’m assuming it was the original. I suspect the replacement r/r you fitted was either 2nd hand or of dubious quality. No offence meant but good quality r/rs are expensive items and there are many significantly cheaper options available on eBay and the web but they’re cheap for a reason. I am confident you’ll connect the new UR r/r start the bike and have a healthy 14.2V DC across the battery terminals regardless of whether the engine is idling or at 10,000 revs. Apart from which the UR comes with a warranty. Have faith, though it’s easy to understand why you may not.
