So I either need to book it in somewhere, end of July is the soonest, or chance the ebay abs sensor was bad and splash £154 on a genuine new one and hope that works?
These symptoms sound suspiciously like an overall charging/electrical supply issue. It’s unusual for that to happen, so don’t worry about that at this stage. Bearing in mind the symptoms you describe I think it’s worth checking the output of the charging circuit at various engine revs. Simply connect a multimeter, on DC volts, across the battery terminals, start the bike and see what the voltage reads once the bike’s started and idling, should be around 14.2v. Take it to 3000rpm, then 6000rpm then 8000rpm, the measured voltage should remain around 14.2v - maybe a very small fluctuation but not much. That’s a test I’d do at this stage. If the r/r is putting out too high a voltage it would explain the warning lights you get and the over voltage error code you got. It’s worth the couple of minutes it will take.
I did check the voltage yesterday 12.3v before starting, dropped to 10 something while starting. Low 14's at tickover and 17 something at 3000rpm. Think the new regulator is cr@p?
Id say that’s your problem. there’s no way the r/r should be pumping out 17V, that will cause all sorts of issues. I’d install a new r/r, test it and go from there. I’m fairly confident you’ll find that will solve the ABS warning light and all other issues. If not we can address them from a position of knowing the electrics of the bike are stable. Don’t buy a 2nd hand r/r, get a new one and make sure it’s MOSFET technology. My go to for r/rs these days are Ultimate Rectifier but that may not be suitable for you with them being based in the Netherlands. Electrexworld in the UK are always reliable too. It’s a good idea to test the AC charging of the stator whilst your at it too, just in case. We need to understand why a new r/r failed so quickly, just bad luck, or something else? Disconnect the plug with the 3 yellow leads. Set the multimeter to AC V 200V range. Start the bike. Measure the voltage across the 3 yellow leads that go back to the stator. Call the 3 pins A B C, Measure the voltage across A & B, then A & C then B & C it should be around 20v at tickover rising to around 80V as you increase engine rpm to around 5000. The exact figures can be found with some googling but they’re in the ball park. I doubt there’s anything wrong with the stator but, again, for the sake of a 2 minute test.
