I've owned the bike for 6 years and put roughly 6000m on it. Never had any issues with dash. Also apart from a couple of showers the bike has only covered dry miles. Even when I have washed the bike I wrap the dash in a plastic bag.
Ok . It was just a thought, if for some reason the BBS and dash can’t talk to each other over the canbus that can lead to mileage discrepancies between the 2 files which will cause the dash to display - - - - - rather than the total miles/km covered. Without further investigation it’s impossible to tell what’s caused the issue. I’m not sure it’s the fact you’ve fitted a 200 section rear tyre. Out of curiosity is the new tyre a lesser aspect ratio than that which has fitted, ie 190/55 to 200/50? Yes, the new tyre may have a marginally different circumference but, because of the way the system works, I can’t see how that would cause the dash and bbs to get a discrepancy between their stored total mileage files. I think it’s worth obtaining a diagnostic analysis to see what’s possibly going on. It could be a simple rewrite of the mileage files sorts the issue and it never raises its head again but unless you try that you’ll never know. If there’s no friendly forum member with an OBDStar device near you is there an independent motorcycle mechanic near you with Texa?
The rear is still 55 profile height. You can see the gap to the rear hugger has decreased. With the 190 you could fit a finger underneath the hugger. Now it’s only a few mm. Thanks for you help so far Cheers Ian
If my back of the envelope (literally ) calculations are correct you’ve increased the circumference of the rear wheel by just 34.6mm ie it’s just 1.017% bigger than the OEM 190/55. I can’t see that’s going to cause the issue you have. When you ride the bike is the speed still displayed? If so you can rule out an issue with the rear wheel speed sensor itself. Has the battery been disconnected just before the problem arose?
Hi Paul Thanks for your time on time. Everything on the bike is working fine. MPH, Trip 1, Trip2 all reading correctly. I did an oil and filter change about a month before changing the tyres but no battery dis connect. The battery is always on a trickle charger. I've tried disconnecting both battery and display overnight.
Then I think it’s worth connecting to diagnostics just to see what, if anything, is going on, and doing a mileage (totaliser) reset.
But if I may ask…does the OBDStar unit actually support the function to activate the ABS module? My daughter’s 2021 V2 is spongy in the front brakes after a bleed, which seems to be air in the lines. Bleeding was done the same as we’ve always done it, but this time, we have air we can’t seem to get rid of. (Pumped about 300ml of Motul RBF through the lines.) So I’m desperate for an answer (realizing that some feel it isn’t necessary to do this). Thx
I’m still learning to navigate around this witchcraftery obdstar. Can anyone tell me where I’ll find the option to reset the startup pin on a 2013 Diavel just to give me a clue before I plug it in to my mates bike? Cheers!
Think this has been covered before and that the OBDStar can activate the ABS module but it doesn't really do anything in terms of helping a brake bleed. My Multistrada 1260 was in for a desmo service last week and this included new brake fluid and a bleed. Brakes feel nice and firm, far better than they were. Asked my indi mechanic and, from what I recall, he said "the only way to get them that way is to do a reverse bleed". He uses something like a mityvac apparently.
According to the functions spreadsheet it's either in the "Code - Special Functions" or "Meter" sections.
It cannot. Ducati service made a video for bleeding brakes. The part that made the biggest difference for me was fully seating the pads before bleeding to force any trapped air out.
Good video that @D4jsmit if your brake still feels spongy do the last thing in that video. Cable tie the brake lever back to the handle bar and leave it overnight or for 24hrs, then bleed at the m/c. Any air in the system will have risen to the m/c overnight as that’s the highest point. The way the ABS system works it’s really not necessary or advisable to bleed at the ABS unit, hence there’s no facility to do so via diagnostics.
It’s worth noting that over tightening the front axle fork clamp bolts on the earlier generation bikes risked fracturing the fork bottom casting. With that personal experience behind me, it’s probably the one bolt (well 4 in practice) I don’t tighten by feel (as we were shown by our Apprentice Master all those years ago). Whilst I’m not going to recommend anyone else does it, I prefer to torque the clamp bolts to 12Nm for peace of mind which, before someone chimes in, I’ve done on my bikes for the last 50 years without issue Andy
Well; for certain models (though I note that the V2 Multi is not included in this in the spreadsheet) it can run an active test, more for diagnostic purposes I guess. Runs the ABS pump. Though as I said, it doesn't help in terms of bleeding the brakes.
That is not a function of the Bosch ABS unit that Ducati uses. Hence OBDStar cannot "run" the ABS pump. The OBDStar merely exposes functions which are present in the various control modules, it cannot create new ones.
It worked!!! Got OBDstar from BMDiag this morning. There was a difference between the ECU and display values and the Totaliser function reset it. Thanks for all the advice lads.
Thanks for the clarification, I bow to your knowledge. The active test of the ABS is on the functions spreadsheet for the OBDStar, had read somewhere (the internet so it must be true, right ) that it cycled the ABS.
For the 2021 Panigale V4 the "active test" once you get into the ABS module is "Correct IMU sensor assembly check." This is the only function under "active test." Like you, I've read many an internet claim of running the ABS module to help with bleeding. It just isn't a thing with the Bosch ABS. Well intentioned speculation misattributed as fact.
