I do t think I’ve ever done tyre calibration, is this something you ‘need’ to do especially if you don’t change the gearing? I’m having new tyres fitted but I’m not really sure why I need it, I don’t have the tyre pressure monitors fitted either.
Apparently to account for rolling circumference that varies from brand to brand as well as accounting for swapping from a worn to a fresh version of the same tyre. Not sure if this means the system learns, over time, the wear of a tyre from fresh to worn, but not for a sudden change, or not? Has an effect on the DQS system making changes smoother, not sure on any other benefit with the DTC etc. but it only takes a few minutes, if that, to do given a clear bit of road.
Nothing quite like the feeling of new tyres (after they have been scrubbed in properly), especially if the previous ones were really worn and squared off.
Was out today after fitting the 14T front sprocket and did a tyre calibration. Seemed to improve QS changes, maybe placebo effect
AFAM sprockets have a good reputation. Also Esjot rear sprockets. If you have changed the front sprocket to a 14T be aware that it will wear out quicker than the OE 15T, for obvious reasons. I found noticeable wear on the ones I had after about 7k miles, so inspect it regularly and be prepared to change it before the chain or rear sprocket needs changing. In contrast, a 42T rear sprocket will wear slower than the OE 40T.
I replaced mine Afam C&S kit after 27000 miles. It was not worn out, bike was sold. Only needed about 4 adjustments in the first 4000 miles then maybe another 2 in the next 20000 miles. No rust either.
Thanks for sharing. Which route is best - the lowers 14t front or the more expensive 42t rear? I currently have 6.5k miles on the existing OE drive chain, would I be ok to just change the front keeping everything else std?
You will probably need to spilt the chain as there is not enough clearance to remove the front sprocket easily
That is worth knowing! Thank you for pointing it out. I assumed there would have been enough room to take the chain off the rear sprocket and slide the front sprocket off its splines, remover the chain, refit the chain to the new front sprocket before sliding it back on. I will need to spend some time looking at other threads re chain splitting. I will have to buy a chain splitter suitable tool. Does anyone know if it is ok practice to split a chain then rejoin and refit it?
It is possible, with removal of the chain from the rear sprocket and a lot of trying and cursing, to remove the 15T front sprocket. Managed that on my 1260 Pikes Peak with a 500 odd mile old DID Gold chain. If you have a spare soft link then removal would probably be easier.
Hi Bumpkin, thanks for the input. I do t have a spare soft link, do you know if you can get them for the oem chain?
