Just serviced my 1098s from 2007 and had some great riding this weekend. No metal in oil, everything runs fine, shifting fine. No issues but a horrible noise have appeared. First I thought I had to much slack in the chain but so is not the case, the sound seems to be coming from inside the transmission/engine. Bike is on paddock stand and in neutral, knocking noise when spinning output shaft. Has anyone seen this before? Sound like something is loose. Since everything works it doesn't seem to have gone boom boom. https://youtube.com/shorts/j27gw7yUcm8?si=GUerpwc6oYaBd8J6
bent or loose selector fork comes to mind first. It might be worth putting a light load on gearshifter (not enough to select a gear) up or down to see if anything changes.
Had a look at the bike now. If I push the gear selector up and down like I was shifting it sometimes end up in a position between neutral and first gear and that's where the knocking sound comes. If I push it up again it goes back to neutral with no sound and if I push it down it goes in to first. Still shift fork?
is gearshift lever behaving normally, or is it "floppy" on lifting or on pushing down? from what you've said already it's worth taking the crankcase cap off and investigating, and you might be lucky with either a broken spring (if floppy) or the spring set-up screws just becoming loose /fractured.
I found with a broken spring I couldn’t select / shift from the gear I was in (resulting in a 3rd gear, 5 mile ride!). My instinct tells me selector fork…. Echo Chris - take the case off and have a look. Good luck!
Will take off as soon as I get the chance. Gear leaver feels fine, so does shifting gears. It just that a "new" gear have presented it self which is neutral with a knock. Maybe there have been some more false neutrals lately but I thought I just lost my touch since I been riding other bikes lately. Don't know if it's related. Thanks a lot everybody. I'll report back once open.
"Gear lever feels fine, so does shifting gears. It just that a "new" gear have presented it self which is neutral with a knock." it's a difficult one to call as could be that main return spring is just slightly misaligned/misadjusted because of reasons given earlier but could still be a bent selector fork.
Thank you Chris. As long it's something resulting in me not having to split my engine I'm happy. Will open it on Thursday to have a look.
My money is on the roller bearing on the far side/left side of the clutch shaft. I know that horrible noise well. To check it you take off the clutch cover and give the clutch a good wiggle. If that's the problem, you'll feel it clunking about.
Sounds like my Monster did after it sheared 4 teeth off the 6th gear, that said you would definitely find debris in the oil if that were the case. I had a proper 'hedgehog' on the sump plug; I also had the bearing on the (sprocket side) end of the gearbox fail but, again that left much debris in the oil and it didn't really make any noise. Both the above repairs involved splitting the cases but it's certainly worth checking the selector mechanism and the clutch/bearings as these avoid splitting the cases, hopefully it is something less demanding...
Thank you all for the response and help. I had some time to investigate. I have zero metal shavings in oil. Oil plug magnet like new. I'm sure it comes from inside the case and not the clutch. The clutch do not move when rotating output shaft in neutral. The knocking is coming from somewhere behind the output shaft. I can see how the gears from time to time when shifting are not fully engaged when looking at the shift fork. Here is second gear fully engaged. No noise. Here is neutral, no noise. Here is in-between neutral and first. Noise as in video. And finally first. No noise. So, what do we make of this? The stuck between gears appear if I do not stomp the shifter and just lightly shift. I don't know how the fork should feel but it might be a bit loose? Video is coming! Also, when neutral fully engaged I from time to time hear a little knock. But I think that's normal? Video coming as well. So if it's the shift fork. Should I also replace the gear selector screw with spring and ball on the back of engine and gear fixing click assembly on the clutch side of engine? The later require a lot more parts and tools since I need to remove clutch side of case as well. Another question, for alignment of shift fork the 1098 manual states tool 887132827. That tool seems to be long replaced but the are no info about which part replace 887132827. I can see that everyone seems to be using the one in the first link below or the other tool in second link. For some reason the 1098 is not listed but these should be the right ones? https://www.ebay.de/itm/277312258722?_skw=ducati+88713.1091&itmmeta=01K2PT9ZB747F2V4CZNKH95C16&hash=item40911942a2:g:lyYAAOSwxVNoOuKX&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fh7MLzu/q0LFD8jRSl/0sSgQElqFmaJUNV1pTgpuhttDHvcfzijd5O/kJStXBkzL6Z8hD9BCHQc577Mdjw16o/7pLPRtoN3/bC+Ux/3IKI4UsgBfUErT+DCS/j0SqUXaeNTY/5ovZkazOShp3S9uGLp6SQQupMGEcvKzbGftJDB0BfyGy0DNKQ4ycusSlnVz9lYYX3JlIdSuQ8jM1PBXBUOsvx8J0ieajxx7QdX7UpQKxJXTgIZ7kWP2PmclIBxAY=|tkp:Bk9SR9z1p9qVZg https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/item-2-1294150-887133334.html
Finally, if needed. This tool should work for removing both inner and outer basket? https://gbmotorcycleproducts.com/du...b-mqoihke-ueXUNk9NUXXZDiVvc3L_QcbYlTg88Ihmo-Q
this video shows normal amount of play also, don't forget it's supported by the outer bearing in the crank case cap.
it's kind of good news and bad news, there is a procedure for adjusting for equal play on the gear change spring available, with dimensions, but initially all looks okay as regards the exterior linkages you have revealed. Can you check to see if any of the gear linkage pivot cap head fixings are loose, and particularly the adjustment sets screw and Lock nut?
