The big 25nm bolt were ok. The small 10nm bolt were loose. How does one adjust/tighten the set screw? I did not touch that since I didn't know what it does. Spanner at nut and tighten with flat screwdriver?
fingers crossed that you have found it! That would give the symptoms you have described. I will try and find the pages from the manual for setting it up, it's not that difficult
I can't do this on my phone just now, but hopefully you can download 1098 on here? The set up is virtually identical for other models, but best to get your actual bike for your peace of mind. http://www.duc.nu/?model=superbike
also, while you are in there, check every fixing and give everything a rock to see if it's loose. Also check the two gear change mechanism springs for visible fractures if you can. they are both prone to breaking over years, The main sturdy spring behind the set screw but particularly the thin gauge hairspring which is partly obscured by the flywheel.
didn't realise that this was a pay option - if anyne reads this and can provide the gearchange spring set-up page(s) then would be much appreciated.
Here you go - pdf of the page attached and this might come in handy as well -: Ducati-Superbike-1098-1098S-2007-2009-WM-07950.pdf
that's invaluable to the O.P. Sev, Thank you, Section that you need is 7.1. there is a bit of confusion about gearchange set-up for the various models - i included a link to a YouTube video earlier but actually it made things worse as omitted setting up the "equal-equal" adjustment of the main spring via the set-screw* and locknut and assumed that you could just fit a new spring and re-assemble the mechanism onto the crankcase.. The spring can become weak in one direction over the years, (sometimes just before a fracture) but this can be allowed for when setting-up* after an inspection etc, so when a new spring is fitted i always do the set-up (outlined at 7.1) first before making any final small adjustments with the two caphead fixings.
Thank you Chris and Sev. I already have the manual since many years ago but this version were much better. I never had the frame tourqe spec so thanks a lot. I'm not with the bike right now but I don't really understand how the set screw works. Need to watch som Youtube. I adjust height by turning set screw? And it should be equal up and down? If this solves my problems. Should I not just replace all springs etc related to the fork? Don't wanna do this again any time soon
Difficult one - how many miles has bike done/how many owners have taken on track etc? depending on this, might be better left as is. Have a look at the page i included (7.1) and make sure you get a good fitting screwdriver to fit the set-screw** You need to use a medium loctite on this but try and apply right at the end of adjustment when you have finished experimenting with the set-screw. You can pretty much set the equal gap by eye, it doesn't need to be to ten thou of an inch ** Don't forget, you don't need to use a lot of force on the actual set screw, you adjust it like doing a tappet on an old car engine, with a screwdriver and a ring spanner on the lock nut ready. once you think you've got the gap equal, you hold the set screw still and lock it up with the lock nut. If you need to adjust it again, you always slacken off the lock nut first, and then adjust the set screw again before locking up with locknut again.
Bike is at 41 000 km, had it since about 15 000 km. Zero track days since I had it. Pretty well taken care of before it ended up in a living room a few years before I bought it Next time I'm with the bike is on Sunday so I'll give a go then and report back. Let's hope for the best. Thanks again.
here is another clue that gives me confidence that you have found it Dokus, because as long as you are not touching the gearlever at this point, the gap I have indicated below is definitely wrong, it's too wide.
If you do replace the springs and reset the gear selector arm position, I'd defo be using the special tool to get the position bang on. I did one engine by eye, and it was fine...but a second engine for some reason needed precision and it was a ball-ache to have to go back in again.
Thank you both. Be the gap, do you mean the gear selector fork should be visible from behind the flywheel? Do I need the tool to adjust the set screw or is it only if I take it apart?
Yeah, that's what I was trying to convey from my own experience (not contradicting any posts above) but I weirdly had an engine that was done by eye and it wouldn't shift gears correctly...hence the need to reopen and use the exact tool.
never ever needed to use the tool - if you have reasonable to good eyesight then you simply need to line up the scribed line with the centre of a pin when in neutral, and then, when moving re-attached gearlever up or down to full extent, you can check that the scribed line on "claw" moves the same amount away from the pin, either to the left or to the right. If you can't see this then the tool won't help you anyway!
no you don't, it's hard to see both gaps with the flywheel in place, but it is possible with patience and a mirror. If they look close to equal then no need to adjust this.
