When I came to leave work this evening my 2008 Hypermotard 1100s wouldn’t start. I turned it on, the pump primed and lights came on, but when I pressed the start button, the headlight dimmed and the starter didn’t turn. I shorted over the starter solenoid and the starter turned but bike failed to start. I swapped the solenoids over, the pump still primed but still no start. At this point I phoned home and was collected. I have left the bike at work. Any thoughts of what might be up?
so many possibilities but was there a big drop in temperature at time of starting compared to previous day? (i'm guessing you use it regularly). Could be battery has mainly just thrown the towel in, but still enough energy to show some life.
It’s a Lithium battery. The condition monitor on it shows full charge, the dash said it was 12.6v and I did try a jump starter on it and that didn’t help. It turns over when the start relay was bridged. I’m picking it up on my trailer today, so will have a good look this weekend
A wise old Leckie once said to me it's the volts that jolts but it's the amps that cranks. I don't know if you know about the strange phenomenon where a defective starter that's reluctant to churn can rob the system of enough sparks to ignite a charge? I think it Is relevant to your model, and it was @finm on here, who banged on about it repeatedly despite nobody listening. so a chance that it is a "stiff" starter motor and/or early battery partial fail. The sort of thing that can suddenly be apparent with a drop of temperature despite working fine for weeks.
nicely put.. different symptoms. the starter worked fine. no obvious fault with cranking speed. however it was pulling enough out of the battery during cranking to switch off the coil drivers within the engine ECU. easily diagnosed (once you you know) that particular ECU is known for it's col driver issues, but that is a different symptom again.
still similar, as wouldn't even start with a jump although providing enough for starter to churn. Exactly the same symptoms as my ugly multi funnily enough.
I would suggest that an internal cell might have failed...my z1000 did this a couple of months back (everything looked fine but it wouldnt crank) - i took the battery out (a JMT - which was in there for about 8 years or so) and the bottom of it was swollen/bowed....got a NOCO to replace it.... your battery if healthy should be around 13.5 volts... not sure what youve already got in there ( as i say i was using JMT's in all my bikes - and theyve been fine) but the first failure (the zed) ive moved to NOCO as the cranking amps are much higher...ironically ive got a JMT in my hyper but, ill be swapping it for a NOCO sooner rather than later so ive got a spare Lithium in the garage i can use if i need to jump any of the other bikes for whatever reason...
Sounds like a duff battery. Also, I’m fairly sure one shouldn’t jump start a lithium battery, it’s no good for the battery or its BMS.
I think the following is correct https://powerpaul.com.au/blog/jump-starting-lithium-batteries-some-dos-and-donts/#:~:text=The “Jump Start” method should,to jump starting a vehicle.
So just had a very quick look. The JMT lithium battery say fully charged on the condition monitor. The voltage when disconnected is 13.18v. Haven’t got time until tomorrow to investigate further. How do I go about finding out if the battery is dead?
I would connect a multimeter set to DC volts across the battery terminals and then press the starter button. See what the battery voltage drops to as the starter motor engages. Anything above 11v is fantastic. 10-11v is ok. Less than 10v is getting iffy and you really should change it.
I put the battery from my 916 in it and it fired right up, so as everyone thought just a duff battery
