I should add that was 13.7V with moderate revs I couldnt tell you how many revs as i dont have a tacho!
Thank you for your input I hope so. Im going to start methodically checking connectors starting with the one behind the battery for the RR, and then work my way around the loom (again).....all while hoping someone has a lightbulb moment for me!
There's a 19 pin connector on the right front of the bike that is a known source of problems. Give that a clean with contact cleaner. It's where the front harness connects to the rear harness
Excellent. I like pictures! Will put high on the list during my next round of fault finding I fear a long winter ahead!
hope you find it, when searching for broken circuits, nothing makes me happier than unplugging a connector and finding traces of green etc discolouration and as said, this major connector is rarely seperated but can suck moisture in. You need patience to split as has a rapid "spiral" for a thread, and sometimes hard to budge. If you have one or two sets of soft grip cupped-face pliers then perfect for the job if stubborn - you might be lucky and find it splits easily but i've had to resort to pliers before now, but needs that "cupped" surface area to be effective and not leave marks, but plug body is pretty tough steel.
Great advice. Really appreciate it. I'm kinda hopeful that this kind of stuff was checked by Rich at Luigi Moto when he had it, but no harm in taking it all apart again and checking Exhaust all options before considering the ECU
As said above pin 24 from the ECU "switches" the tacho. Not sure if this is 12v or 5v? On the switch signal. If you are using a digital multimeter you may need to turn it to A/C setting. Engine turning. However this probably will not work as multimeters are tuned for 50 hertz. 240v/50hz. Getting to the ECU is not difficult. Disconnect battery, for safety/damage reasons and check wire continuity. If no joy maybe you do need an ozzy scope.
A upper-level (e.g. Fluke) multimeter will probably have 'Hz' measurement (mine has). Worth the OP asking around...
A bit low with the ignition off but since the bike isn't running the tacho wouldn't be registering anyway. The voltage with the bike at side is probably about right for idle speed. It should be more or less battery voltage which I'd expect to over 14V at 2,000 rpm. Does it rise when you increase the revs? The tacho is very susceptible to a low supply voltage and a non functioning tacho is often the first sign of a voltage regulation failing.
I have been wondering about the voltage regulation. I recently had to diagnose an issue with our Ford Mondeo, which proved to be as simple as a bad connection dropping the voltage that then sent off a chain reaction that lit the car up like a Christmas tree. Part of that diagnosis was initially replacing the battery which helped the problem massively. A spray of contact cleaner and a bit of emery tape and the issue disappeared and never resurfaced. The battery on the 996 is brand new so im happy to rule that out, but given how much i have read about the Voltage regulation, i do wonder if there is sense in replacing the Regulator so that it can also be ruled out. Its a bit of throw and see what sticks.....but its also easier than pulling the bike apart looking at connections! Any thoughts? And if a good idea, any suggestions on the best replacement to get which isn't going to set off the alarm bells with senior management (she has already noticed the extra tacho)
In that case check the voltage at the battery with the engine running and lights off. Should be 14.5 volt or thereabouts. Engine off 12.6 volt for a wet cell battery.
So another round of odds and sods Before starting I took the following voltages: Bike off: 12.67 Ignition on, lights off: 12.07 (I'm assuming fuel pump dropped it down) Idle, lights off: 14.25 Fast idle, lights off: 14.27 I took the 19 pin connector apart. Looked fine but gave it a clean (came apart no problem) I also got to the 2 connectors behind the battery for the Rectifier. They look like they have got a bit warm in the past and we're grubby. Gave them a good clean and reassembled. No change. Any thoughts on the above?
I think your regulator rectifier seems ok. There are useful posts on you-tube on how to check the diodes, if you are not convinced. Saves money after all! Fuel pump would drop voltage slightly but then cuts out after a few seconds due to no signal from crank position sensor because of engine not turning. It's a mystery, as Toyah once sang.
