Typo. Meant to say ZVMX. My Diavel is 2020 and bought with 5K miles on it so I'm assuming it's the OE chain. There's no mention of replacement in the service history. It's got no marks on it at all and it isn't gold. I haven't used the ZVMX2 gold chains before. I assumed you were just paying more for the gold bling. The KTM is due a new set of chain and sprocks in the spring. I've always used Afam sprockets with a plain ZVMX chain, but I'll try the gold 2 DID chain this time as see if it's better. I get about 15K from a set as well (miles though, not km which seems pretty good to me) but on the KTM it seems constantly to need adjusting whereas on the Ducatis I rarely touch them. I do think that's down the the length of the run and the amount of lash. Edit: I don't have much trouble with corrosion but my chain maintenance routine is pretty rigorous and I don't ride in rain and salt anymore. I used S-Doc white chain lube for years but noticed pre-covid when I did a lot more touring that rust was creeping in. I think they changed something with the lube. Now I use XCP Pro lube and have had no corrosion on raw steel chains at all. Will definitely be trying the Gold next round though. Since owning a Harley with belt drive and a shaftie Rocket 3 I've become less enamoured of chain maintenance so I need all the help I can get..
I don’t believe there’s any difference in strength or durability between a ZVMX2 gold and no gold version, it really is just aesthetics. The OEM chains, although made by DID are, I’m sure, manufactured to fit the pricing of a sizeable purchase contract. They’re probably akin to the basic O-ring range. If you don’t want the aesthetics, never ride in the wet or when salt has been laid down in previous days and are fastidious with chain cleaning and maintenance you probably don’t need to pay the extra for the gold versions. Alternstively, you could really splash out and fit a Regina HP maintenance ‘free’ chain.
Shit! £242 just for the chain for my KTM. I could be tempted for that bike though just for reduced maintenance.
Call me a Stupidmoto man then. I used a similar method except with the 2016 MTSPPE on the center stand I used a ratchet strap to bring the rear wheel up until the line between the sprocket centers passed through the swingarm pivot center (one of those laser line thingies is handy for this). Then I found the tightest spot and set just about 1/2” of wiggle in the lower half of the chain. Removed the strap, let the swingarm go to full droop, and put a new mark on my factory gage. Now I check the chain on the center stand and know it’s always right, regardless of bike load, etc. The above was performed with a new DID x-ring chain and new sprockets. I ride 400 miles a week and perform a chain CLA once every week. That chain’s been on 10,000 miles so far, bike runs and shifts smooth as anything, and I’ve needed to adjust the chain exactly twice in that time. YMMV. Best wishes and happy new year! Dave G.
