I have these on my 900SS and they are a good improvement on the original ones especially for cold starting and low engine rpm running
Update: I’ve received and fitted the ccw coils, I’ll explain what’s happened as plainly as I can. still not starting, checked for a spark on the plugs and nothing. I used a built meter and I’m only getting 9v to the positive one both coils and igniter boxes, however when I removed the positive terminal to the front coil I noticed a change in tone from the fuel pump, I then metered again and now there is 12v (11.43v) to the rear coil and both igniter boxes. I then rechecked for a spark with the positive terminal still removed. On the rear barrel I get a spark but only when I first turn on the ignition but nothing on crank, when I refit the positive terminal the fuel pump note changes and I get no spark on either plug. I hope that description I gave helps, I’m sure I’ve missed something out but I feel I’m on to something.
Sounds like a bad connection anywhere between the battery and the ignition system. Try jury rigging a temporary connection from the battery +ve straight to one of the coils. The coils and the igniters are all in parallel so they should all get the same voltage. Hopefully it will get sparks and at least show sign of sparking. The change on fuel pump sound is due to the volts dropping when the coils draw current. This could also indicate a high resistance connection somewhere before the fuel pump. Maybe fuse No. 3 terminals, the kill switch or the connector to the RH handlebar switch.
The note of the fuel pump doesn’t change when I remove the positive terminal to the rear barrel if that has any further significance?
when you say a change in tone, I'm guessing that it's a drop in tone? are you happy with the condition of the battery and the starter and earth leads? You would get a slight drop in power when you connect up a coil but it sounds as though it's possible that there's a chance that you have a short circuit somewhere. The leads that run to the pickups within the crankcase are quite slight, and if not handled with care can go open or closed circuit, if the insulation is bared and starts earthing out on the crank case body*. *EDIT - should explain that this usually happens internally and nearly always adjacent to the tiny connectors.
Yes the tone drops when the front coil is connected, but no change in tone if I remove/refit the positive terminal on the rear barrel
from what i can see they look ok, better than average even. You can measure the values for the internal pick-ups via the loom/leads as a starting point, and even check if any are earthing.
Ive measured the resistance on both pick ups and they comeback as 95ohms which the haynes manual says is right.
It's a good start but they can still misbehave - have you tried testing each for grounding? you can do this with ignition off without fear of damage.
Measure resistance to ground between any pick up wire and the crankcase. You should get a reading of infinity or damn near it.
the increase in voltage at components as you disconnect other components on a circuit with a common power supply is almost defo a bad connection/high resistance further back in the loom towards the battery. as has been said. my experience (with cars) leads me to believe that more often than not its a component rather than a wire. looking at your diagram, a mechanical switch. kill switch? or connector plug issue. maybe around the fuse box or general relay. places i would be taking measurements. make sure everything is connected and work your way back from the battery with the ignition on, probing each side of any component/ connection. i think a test light (not digital) would suffice for this. . maybe just change the relay anyhoo. also, just disconnecting connectors can inadvertently resolve a fault, possibly only temporarily without a proper diagnosis. but that's more likely on systems that draw less of a current (amps) it's better to probe either side first.
Tried a few more bits today before the rain started did a continuity test on the coils and it seems like a good connection between the positive terminal on the coil to negative terminal on battery (getting a beep). Checked a few connections working my way back and they seem fine, had the stater switch open and inspected, all seems fine. Check the pick up again and getting 93ohms, tried to measure resistance between pick up and crankcase and wasn’t getting anything (nothing changed on multimeter screen). everything I’m checking connection wise seems pretty good.
