Hi all, I'm fairly well on with a 996 track bike build and looking for advise on a few items I still need to install/sort out: I have installed adjustable cam pulleys and dialled the cams in to advance the timing (as per the old Brad the Bike Boy write ups). I have installed a wide band lambda sensor in the horizontal cylinder exhaust, near to the cylinder head, with the intention of adjusting the fuelling and re-mapping the eprom accordingly; I intended to rely on the delta map to fuel the vertical cylinder - does this make sense? What's a sensible maximum RPM? - I was thinking 9,500 (I currently run a 748 which revs out to 11,000), but clearly that is not acceptable for the 996 if I want it to hold together! What coolant temperature sensor arrangement have you used to provide a 0-5 volt signal for a logger? Any advise on the best crash bobbins to fit - preferably without cutting the fairing panels? Just a starter for ten really... Thanks in anticipation Tony
The old bikes crash well, I never fitted crash bungs as the bikes slide on their side, i was always worried the bungs would catch and flip. Revs depend on rods, with rs rods mine go to 11k, but not for long. 10k would be ok on standard rods, but after you have tuned if get it on a dyno and see where max power is. If you can redo the eprom and can do so, I would do each cylinder individually, every ducati i have done has had some major differences in fuelling between vertical and horizontal maps
They do crash well. Leathers did not so so well. This was my offering to the Craner Club membership committee last May.
Not sure about your fueling changes but the rest seems OK. If you're running Brad's cam timing you won't need, or get an advantage out of running more than 9500 anyway. I assume you are flashing the EPROM for rev limiter as well. Depending on your rules, lightweight forged wheels would be a great option. The stock 5 spoke wheels on the 996 are cast aluminium alloy not forged and still fairly heavy. Not as heavy as the 3 spokes though
Glad you are OK, It's a shame it damaged the fuel tank too. would you recommend switching to race style gear shift pattern (1 up/5 down)? I have new rearsets which have the optional parts to use either, however I was erring on keeping it standard as it's one extra thing to think about if I invert it!
Race shift makes sense for a track only bike. Upshifts by tapping the pedal downwards are far easier when you are in full crouch position. Multiple fast downshifts by using brake retardation forces are more precise.
All my bikes have 'race' shift, its what you get used to. Makes it easier to change up when cranked over to the left.
At 11000rpm a 748 has a piston speed of 22.5 meters a second, a 996 would have just over 24 m/s .By comparison a Honda 1 litre fireplace has just under 18 m/s . Jap manufacturers don't like going over 20 m/s generally.
Likewise. My first bike had a 1 up, 4 down setup (and a RH shift) and I've always preferred that configuration, just seems more natural to me; down for faster/up for slower. Ducatis are easy to 'flip' others bikes not always, I had to manufacture a reverse linkage for the Guzzi. As for the rev limiter, is there much of a power benefit after 9,500rpm on a 996? IIRC from the dyno my 916 made peak power at just under 10k and tailed off after that. I would think a 996 would make it's power a little lower down? Plus with the bigger pistons, probably wise not to go so fast if you want the engine to last. Also, my understanding is that the desmo gear really doesn't like extended periods over 10k, hence the extreme servicing requirements of race bikes.
Standard power curve for a 996 sps. The lower one was with an over tjr bellmouth filter. So while it could go to 10k it had a good spread of top end power.
Agree with that power band. I am changing the gearing on the 748R race bike by using this https://www.gearingcommander.com/ I need less revs and more top speed for Doni National.
Thanks for the info - coincidentally, the bike came with a single foam dome type air filter over both intakes, which I thought could well interfere with proper airflow into the bell mouths - the dyno graph seems to confirm that is the case. I'm going to use the standard filter configuration but with Ramair filter pad cut to shape as the filter medium.
