My bike (ST2) is booked in for new tyres on Thursday this week but I was thinking last night that ideally I would like to only take the wheels in so that when I get them back I can give them a good bit of attention as well as some of the those other more difficult to get at places. I'm reasonably technical and competent but have never removed bike wheels before and wondered if I am inviting potential problems? Would the advice be to leave well alone and let the experts deal with it or is it actually very simple as long as one is methodical and careful? Thank you
If you have front and rear paddock stands the process is pretty straight forward. Most tyre places prefer loose wheels. They will charge extra for a bike rolling in for tyres changing. Not a ST2 but the process is the same.
Chris thank you for your very prompt response it's much appreciated. Just ordered paddock stands which should be with me tomorrow. Just a quick further question; Do the discs and sprockets need to be removed before taking the wheels in?
You must leave everything on (discs, sprockets) as they will need them on to balance the wheels once the new tires are on.
As the rear sprocket is floating on the Cush drive pins the sprocket is usually removed when balancing the rear wheel.
Thanks again Chris that's critical information. Keith, no I didn't know the torque settings but have just found them in the handbook. Quite high 63Nm front spindle nut and 83Nm rear. Thanks for bringing such an important issue to my attention.
Do not forget 20NM for the front pinch bolts for the axle When you have owned a single sided swingarm model, then those torque values you have found are low.
And don’t forget to remove the wheel spacers from the wheels before you take them to the tyre fitters. Sometimes the spacers remain held in by dust seal over the bearings when you take the axle out. If you don’t take them out and look after them you can better your bottom dollar they’ll fall out in the tyre fitting process and drop into a black hole under the tyre machine completely unknown to the fitter.
Paddock stands; If the rear wheel is like that of a Monster/SS then make sure you refit the conical spacer on the sprocket side the right way round or it will eat into the swingarm. Don't pull the brake lever/pedal when the calipers are not round the disc and double-check the chain alignment by measuring the spindle to swingarm on both sides to ensure the wheel is in straight i.e. don't just rely on the markings on the swingarm.
Funnily enough I was reading something the other day about that and believe the torque can be up to 200Nm. Having said that, I also remember reading something a while back that when one gets to the seriously high torques the difference between say 120 and 140 would be less than a mm? Is that true?
Not easily, you don't want it falling over so I'd recommend you find a safe place to leave it. You could get one of the fancy Abba? stands, might have castors on them.
I imagine that the Haynes manual is a reasonable reference for torque values, the order and positioning of spacers, etc... When I had a '98 900SS the Haynes was good enough for everything I needed.
Well chaps, most rewarding morning. Wheels are off and about to take to the tyre shop; it will give me a chance to deep clean in and around the swinging arm and callipers. Thanks for the heads up on all the advice especially about torque settings. Can you believe that the rear left nut was only a fraction tighter than hand tight So much for my £1500 service !!
Screw some eye bolts into the wooden beams in your ceiling. Then use ratchet straps to hang the bike from the ceiling. Guarantees it cannot fall over, even if you do something clumsy and stupid. Don't ask me how I found this out.
