Good to know. I did look into modifying the battery tray and fitting a heavier-cranking lead acid, but like everything else on the SF the battery compartment is a tight fit with zero scope for enlargement. Mine's had engine work done as well and runs higher compression than stock. I suspect that's why the sprag is goosed. As plug and play mosfet units are readily available and Skyrich make a drop-in replacement lithium battery it didn't seem worth trying to faff about. Might as welljust bite the bullet, and go lithium at the same time the sprag gets replaced.
yes and one of the relays . i tried that with the fuel tank disconnected and could here something else as well. obviously i can hear the fuel pump as well,when connected.
i checked the battery when the bike was running and it was a varying from 13.79 to 13.84. today i soldered the 3 wires between the reg/rec and the stator , rather than using connectors and fitted another battery from my 1260. the bike will now start while its hot, so the next thing i will check is the reading on the 1260 battery while its running and compair both. the bike is still a pain to start whilst cold but its always been like that.
Just an “outsider” myself Hope to be getting an XDiavel next month However imho measuring battery voltage either engine running or not running won’t really tell you how “healthy” a battery is You really need to measure battery voltage when cranking engine, for a well charged battery it shouldn’t drop below 10v (worst case) If it’s below 10v or close to 10v, I would replace it
the battery from my multi 1260 while the bike is running is reading 13.65 to 13.72 , so both batteries seem to be in good condition. double checked the bike would start when the engine is hot and it started sitting at 80 on the dash. looks like the reg/rec did not like connecters being used,rather than the wires being soldered.
