Took the bike for a ride after fitting new tires. Done 80 miles and then the bike died while riding. Managed to bump start it and get it back to my mates and then home in a van. The bike felt great during the 80 miles to ride Charged battery up to max took charger off and tested battery voltage Bike off 13.6 Bike on idle 12.8 Bike 5k rpm 13.8 Does 13.8 at 5k rpm indicate a battery that's charging or should that read higher? For reference i use a c tek 0.8 trickle charger which at stage 4 should say if the battery is duff or not, but passed and went into stage 5 which is 90% to 100% battery charging (which takes about 10 days) I was unable to take apart the rectifier to stator conector to test the cables for voltage or continuity and before i decide to cut the wires so i can test them, i wanted to make sure I'm doing this right. I've read the cables/ connections on these get burnt up and perhaps that's why the connector is stuck shut. The other connector coming from the rectifier came apart but the female plug was indeed in a bad way. New one being delivered soon I'll throw a picture up. I'm assuming most people will tell me to get a mosfet r/r but what about a new stator if i do indeed need one, are there any particular makes to get or just an oem from ducati? Jack
If 13.8v is ok could it be that the cables had come loose a bit, and taking them out and back in fixed the issue. Or is this wishful thinking. I'll check what my hyper reads tomorrow
I would have said 14.5v is good. When running. Constantly charging batteries not a great idea. If not in use disconnect the battery. There are useful tutorials on Youtube on how to check the diodes on your regulator/rectifier. However that plug looks bad and probably would be better modifying. It's a common fault. Have you got a CCA meter to check the ampage on your battery?
12,8 v at idle is not good, it should at leas be over 13, preferably around 13,5. That connector you have pictured is not good. I have connected the cables with bullet connectors separatly. You can test the stator with a multimeter. Run the bike and you should have around 30-35 volt ac across them.
That connector is burnt which will create resistance which will cause a drop in voltage. It’s best replaced. 12.8V at idle is too low. it should be 14-14.5v 13.8V at 5k rpm is better but still not good, again it should be 14-14.5V. If the burnt connector is the stator to r/r connector I’d replace it and then test the r/r output voltages again. There is a slim chance you may find the issue lies in not enough voltage reaching the r/r. More likely though you’ll need a new r/r too. If you do need a new r/r get a MOSFET Series type, not the cheaper mosfet shunt type. @nelly of Cornerspeed sells a good reliable make of them, made by Ultimate Rectifier. It’s unlikely you’ll need to change the stator but do test it while at it, there are plenty of YouTube vids on how to test the AC voltage output of it. Finally you don’t say where you were testing the voltage to get the readings in your first post but I’m assuming you were using a multimeter to measure the voltage across the battery terminals?
Yes that's correct, voltage across the battery terminals with a multimeter. The ultimate rectifier is the one i was looking at so will defo go with that. I couldn't pull apart the connector from the stator to r/r, i will try again. The burnt one i guess is the one hooked up to the battery. New part to be delivered soon. I've seen the guides and will have another go this weekend. Cheers
The connector between stator and rectifier was stuck together like it was welded.. i broke it trying to remove it and the insides showed melted plastic just like the stator to battery connector. So as per @916kpr post i decided not to bother hooking up new plugs as I've read elsewhere this is a known problem. I used butt connectors. That was done after watching a youtube guide on how to properly test the wires. Battery now reads 14.2v at idle.
Bullet connectors seem to work fine where the square block connectors are more prone to fail and definitely need to be checked/cleaned etc. My 916 melted the connector, at the time I replaced it with a similar type (though slightly more heavy duty) and have kept it clean since so no more problems but my Monster, being an older design simply has bullet connectors and has never given any bother. Sometimes the older, simpler ways are better.
