Hopefully you will be able to rule out lighting cct Then do same with ign relay, connect battery +ve to “output”if ok, connect battery +ve to “input”
This is with Main beam on , under load I am thinking to remove the terminals from the fuse box, inspect / clean If I undo the yellow retainer , they appear to be spade connectors
From diagram c,d,e,f fed from same contact on ignition relay, if fuse c checks out so this would be the next place to look
I found the old ignition relay , same results (2018 -- Reason it was changed for a new relay , preventative maintaince) I cleaned the fuse box, ignition relay wiring , 40 A fuse contacts and dielectric grease Ignition pin 30 --> feeds the Fusebox, jumper cables from left beam (Fuse C) to high beam (Fuse D) to low beam (Fuse E main beam) I noticed a drop in Voltage across the jumper cables I am starting to think this is just 24 year old wiring or 90's Italian electrics
[QUOTE I am starting to think this is just 24 year old wiring or 90's Italian electrics [/QUOTE] Nah. You mean Japanese electrics installed by Italians, what could go wrong...!!??
Who needs anything more than a dipped beam I am putting in all LED , thats how they would fix it at the factory
I had a look , the wires to the ignitor relay stem off the main harness, packaged together in heat protective sleeve , 40A fuse loom is sealed for the most part ; It appears I would need to cut into the main harness to trace wires/replace, sections of the loom forking off into numerous directions I assume these harnesses are not available to purchase The battery is charging at 13.65v under load , the bulb is getting 12.65v Where to start ?
You could connect to the relay input and output likewise fuse Removal of existing wire is irrelevant as is if it’s ok there would be no change in reading, if faulty reading would change with addition of good supply Likewise repair, you could run 2.5mm bypassing existing cable Obviously not ideal, but as it’s your bike, why not
https://chatgpt.com/share/69ff3769-01c4-83eb-9e5e-859cf0c570d1 Tailored to the 748 https://chatgpt.com/share/69ff38d0-3224-83eb-a17b-a10e35e19247
Chunkier cable less volt drop. Then hide it with self amalgamating tape. Who would know the difference? Oh... we do.
Not a chatbot, just saves loads of typing. This is one upgrade that will improve sluggish starting on Ducatis https://chatgpt.com/share/69ff466b-4e18-83eb-bf58-9394267ee7ef
Some engines are slow to turn over My XDiavel isn’t exactly quick Hatz diesel’s are crazy slow, sounds like the battery is completely shot, but that’s how they are designed the starter is slow turning high torque Perhaps Ducati’s are the same
Thanks Chris I still have the oe cables on the battery ti the starter solenoid , in addition, I put on the exact start cables a few years ago , she starts on the button , i have a new gp style ducabike switch I also replace the starter solenoid , put a tyco seal connector on there , stop the dirt getting in , all uprated gauge wire
Thanks defi You could connect to the relay input and output likewise fuse I am a bit confused with this one , what to do Run a new wire from 40a output to relay output Run a new wire from 40a input to relay intput Check voltage at pins and 40A ? The ignition relay , 13.3v , drop of 0.45v from the 40a fuse , I have no issue running a new wire , it all appears to be sealed , i think it is a loom out job Considering the battery is still getting 13.65v across it with the light on , maybe a winter project I have a monster 900, 1997, same setup, out of curiosity I might run the same voltage tests to compare , there's a drop I voltage at pin 30 and across the fuse box
