Std road gearing...I was one down front 2 up rear and worked well enough. But you can ride it nearly all in 3rd if you want ;-)
hi there i was also on that trip, in garage 12 ,riding a monster evo and mv agusta brutale. are you guys in garage 13 regards Allen
Hi yep, I was on a black gixer, spent most of my time fixing it tue pm and wed am, garage number said it all lol
if it was just oil why would anyone change their springs I usually run 11 whatever the measure is, these probably have 9.5 or 10 tops, as most aren't as heavy as me
thanks fully it DIDNT rebound, just slid and it was less set up, more rider input...and I did it again last session but better front tyre saved a second trip to the gravel
thats the plan, try and get mid pack in something like NL endurance, with maybe a few rounds of North Glos as they have castle coombe and thruxton Think I'm c5-6 secs a lap of where I'd need to be at a 1'45 size track for mid pack and with ACU head not trackday head I can get that easy
I bought ohlins from FTR suspension for my s1000rr and I had the bottoming out problem. I contacted them saying "I thought you put heavier springs in there for my weight, they are bottoming out" The response was yep we did, bottoming out isn't due to the springs, you need more oil. I put 20ml 5wt fork oil in each leg, the situation improved but didn't go away, another 15ml and they were perfect. On my Panigale R there is 30mm sag with no rider, when I sit on the bike I lose another 20mm I have wound up the preload to max but I still have 50mm front sag from a total available travel of 130mm, this is way to much. The forks bottom out easily on the road, never mind the track. I need heavier springs to sort out the sag and then I will need to see if they still bottom out, if they do it will be more oil providing the sag with me on the bike is around 30mm (not so important on the front). Riding and testing will then fine tune the adjustments. Like you say "if it was just oil why would people change their springs", they would change their springs to sort out the preload, not to sort out the bottoming out problem you stated you had, for that they would change the oil level (or air gap), however one thing will impact on the other. So initially I thought heavier springs were the answer but the experts told me different providing the sag is reasonable. Hope this helps Davy
it does make sense, until you get to the point that it has the right amount of oil and still bottoms out...but as you say that will also mean sag is not quite in the right range, which its not. Parkitt set it up at Snett and tbh his method of setting sag was to use a cable tie after a ride going to add bigger springs and get some advice on air gap, once I've found a link to how easy it is to change springs. Or its forks out and off to specialist
The first thing I would/will do is set the sag using the correct spring, Followed by setting the oil level (air gap) to prevent bottoming out (this will be done at manufacturers recommended settings for rebound/compression). I'm not sure there is such a thing as the correct amount of oil as this is what will be altered to to prevent the bottoming out (and leave you with compression/rebound adjustment to fine tune) once the sag is set. If you find out how easy it is to change springs let me know as I'm going to need to do it as well Interested to hear how you go. Regards Davy
on my Ducatis its always been easy to do the springs and oil/air gap messing about no idea what this gixer with ktech 25mm sstk cartridge kit is like on my old B class bike, non adj suspension, I cut the progressive spring down and messed with spacers until it sat right and air gap to aid compression etc under the guidance of people who know what they are doing. And that handled really well with an ohlins rear shock.
