Looks like my clutch is shagged..!! and is this a 2 or 3 phase reg/rect. was thinking of going for the zx10 one with the triumph lead, but just wondered if this was a later one that may not have problems (if there is such a thing?). as it is mounted by the battery??
Looks like shindengen reg/rect to me. theyre ok. Are they alloy clutch plates in steel drum? they don't mix. Drum looks ok maybe just friction plates reqd. Motorize_gbh on ebay do sets for £90 or less on ebay.
Think you could be right about the alloy plates. Looks like they have minimal friction material on them, although the clutch wasent slipping. Thanks for the heads up.
We cant see how much friction material is left from these pics , there is a large clearance between the friction plate tangs and the clutch basket , must be a right rattle from it.
What year bike is it? As for the wires melting, the problem is usually the connector block melting, the wires were better upgraded on the earlier two phase bikes. Steve
Cheers Steve. It's a 2000, hence the dodgy alternator nut. Thinking of going to Europe later in the year, so was thinking of going the MOSFET route, as th e reg/ rect seems to be a weak link and I don't want to have to carry loads of spares.
Shidengen rec/regs are reliable. Its the earlier type that fail. Y2000 should be ok, just check the connections as prev post. Pick up a cheap 3 phase(3 yellow wire) reg from ebay and take it with you if you're going somewhere hot as insurance, clicky strap it under fairing somewhere.
Will grab some pics. Gonna some new plates anyway, as like you said, the tangs are shagged. Hopefully have it back together this weekend as my misses is wanting her cbr6 back.!! the pushrod has snapped, the bearing on the pressure plate is ok, so i cant see that it will do any damage to the assy. Got a later slave cyl (as per previous post and photo) so i 'll see how it goes. Wheres the cheapest place for Ducati oem parts?? need pluga and coolent also.........the list goes on......where's that lottery ticket???
According to the service manual, the gap (S) between the plate tabs (A) and the basket (B) should be less than 0.6mm to ensure rattle free operation... I can see that your gap is *slightly* more than that!!! But it doesn't mean your clutch is knackered, just that it will rattle more... Again, according to the service manual the clutch plates themselves should be replaced when they wear by more than 0.2mm - that means that a 3mm plate is less than 2.8mm or a 2.5mm plate is less than 2.3mm. You can still use worn plates though - I swap out 1.5mm steel plates for 2mm steel plates to keep the pack thickness up to the required size (which changes by bike, year, clutch type, etc!) so again it doesn't mean your clutch is knackered if a couple of plates are low. If your basket looks like this (or worse!) then that too will need changing. The tabs slide up and down the basket so any notching like this will stop them sliding smoothly and will affect clutch operation. Again, it doesn't mean your clutch is knackered, it just makes it less smooth to engage and disengage. Just beware of those clutch plate sets from Motorize_gbh as the set that I got had thin tabs and gave a gap about the same as you have in the picture! There's about 4mm difference between those and OEM clutch plates, so unless you like it rattly you may want to steer clear!
just ordered a new pushrod for my 2001 slave cylinder. is there anything i need to know to extract it from the pressure plate??cheers.
just been on the phone to ducati and they said that the engine was made in 99, but bike was registered march 2000. Are you saying that the 2 phase wiring is superior, or that from the 2 phase they were better? cheers.
Ducati have been through numerous designs of reg/rec, connectors and even fairings to stop failures in the electrical system. The original system was a 2-phase 350W system. The original reg/recs suffered premature failure and these were replaced with new ones with a dot of green paint on them to note the difference. However, the failures continued so Ducati redesigned it again to include a large backing plate which acted both as a heat sink to stop the reg/rec overheating and also as a shield to protect it from the exhaust heat from the horizontal cylinder. They also changed the connectors over from bullet connectors to a single block connector, but these still suffered from corrosion, which built resistance and led to heat, melting and eventually failure with short circuits (and smoking/fires!) a common occurance. The 350W system was only just capable of keeping the battery topped up. You couldn't run both headlamps (dipped + main) as the system couldn't cope! Running so close to the operating limit of the reg/rec really didn't help things either. Eventually Ducati redesigned the whole lot in 1999 for 2000 models to a 3-phase 500W system. This gave the bike an extra 150W of headroom for the electronics and allowed both headlights to run at once as well as charging the battery! Ducati also redesigned the fairing for a larger NACA duct and removed the smaller bottom duct to help improve airflow further to keep the reg/rec cooler - although this only works when the bike is moving and they're still subject to heat from the exhaust in standing conditions. The upshot is that because your bike is a cross-over year, it could have either the 2-phase or the 3-phase system. The only way to tell is to look at the connector that comes out of the flywheel/generator side of the engine (left-hand as you sit on the bike) and if it has 2 yellow wires it is 2-phase and 3 yellow wires means 3-phase. It is possible to use the later reg/rec (500W improved version) with a 2-phase system as you can tie two of the yellow wires on the reg/rec together BUT this doesn't magically give you the 500W that the 3-phase system can provide, it just allows you to use the 3-phase reg/rec! There's nothing wrong with the 2-phase system IF you look after it. You need to make sure that the connectors are clean and corrosion free, that the reg/rec is working well and kept cool and that you don't place extra demand on the electric system by doing the dual-light mod (having both lights on for full beam), as well as keeping your battery in good condition. A good tip on 2-phase systems is to move the reg/rec away from the exhaust and put it somewhere in airflow away from the engine. Most later bikes have the reg/rec tucked under the headstock as this is far enough from the engine not to get over-heated and in clean air flow at the front of the bike. Just extend the wiring enough to move it and you're done. You can also cut out the connector a directly connect (solder/crimp) the wires together as this will eliminate connector break-down. HTH.
Nothing special its set in a bearing that you can just knock out by placing the correct sized socket over , so it comes out square .
