On a recent ride my engine stopped as i approached home after hitting a bump in the road, the dash showed a code 16.0 error. I know the code means fuel relay and i have replaced the rear relay at the side of the battery box. I thought i had resolved the problem as the bike started & even took it on a short test ride, yet the next time i tried to start it didn't start however poking around the fuse box area & looms or moving the bike it sometimes starts. I have check as many connections as i can see and when the bikes running i have shook looms and connectors and could replicate problem. I know my rear brake switch is broken; surely this would not throw up a fuel relay fault intermediately, would it? Any ideas?
I would check the wires to the fuel pump under the tank. They are prone to chafing on the vertical cylinder head and cause a short circuit.
Cheers Chris Had the connector apart earlier, but didn't check along the length I'll take a look tomorrow.
Checked the cable and connector under the tank all seems ok. Have cleaned the relay block and fuse holder with contact cleaner and still she refuses to start. I am going to get another couple of relays tomorrow, just in case the one i had was a duff one, even though it was new. Any other ideas?
Really at loss to know what the problem is. I've replaced both relays just in case i have a Friday bike and the relays are in different positions. The rear brake light switch is new and working. The wiring under the tank seems OK with no signs of damage. But still i have the orange light on and the error code 16.0. Help need as i really am at a loss; any ideas?
I wonder if you have this problem which is a break in the wiring where it enters the tank. Aprilia's suffer the same problem and I believe they share a common loom supplier. The wire breaks within the epoxy connector so there is no visible issue, it can only be found with a meter. If you dig out the epoxy you find the break. Worth checking, as It loses the pump earth when this occurs and gives a relay error.
I've been in the garage tonight and it appears to be an ECU/earth fault. If i supply an earth to the relay by passing the ECU (earth) the fuel pump works. I have check the continuity of the wire to the ECU and all seems to be OK. So its looking like an ECU/ earth fault. Any ideas what else i can do without going to the cost of replacing the ECU?
Locate the diagnostic connector to the left of the ECU. It is a 3 way Superseal connector and should have a protective cap on it. You will see that there are only 2 wires into the connector. What would be the middle wire is the earth. Try running a wire from the middle wire to the -ve connector on the battery.
You've identified that it may be an earthing issue. This mod is usually used when an ECU has been damaged by voltage inversion or spike where the earthing is damaged. It's worth a try.
The ECU should be earthed by a flying lead with a ring terminal attached to one of the mounting screws. If it has come loose you will get exactly your symptoms. The damage that Chris refers to usually causes the fan to run all the time although earthing the the middle pin of the diagnostic connector may fix your problem too.
The earthing ring is clean and attached securely. If i fix the problem using this earth from the diagnostic plug could i leave this earth in place without doing any harm? Thank you all for the replies and support
Just a thought. How does the earth lead attach to the ECU? I have seem the ring end but does it plug in to the back of the ECU, if so i need to check that end
The ring is the earth for the ECU through it's case. The other end of the wire goes into the loom where it makes an earth connection. It would be worthwhile checking the continuity of the ring terminal to earth. If it doesn't, a separate lead from the ECU case to earth would solve your problem.
Totally gutted. Check continuity of earths leads all OK. Ran a lead as describe with no change, still error 16.0 pump. Tried earthing the ecu casing still nothing. Thinking its now the ECU I take it I can't just buy an ECU off E bay for £70 and fit it because of the immobilizer. So can i get the ECU (off eBay) flashed to suit my keys and how much would that cost and can it be done off the bike? or any other ideas?
The ECU in your bike is not coded. If you can buy another 1098 (same mapping) then it will be plug and play. Although, a TPS reset would be recommended. If you can't find a 1098 one then any from an 848/1198/HM/SF can be flashed to the mapping on your current ECU. (These are the best donors as they are uncoded ECU's)
