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Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by densel16, May 15, 2014.

  1. Just came out for a rip and one of my crush drive has decided to come out of the sprocket carrier and rag my adjuster. Is their an aftermarket one that will not do this, or what are your recommendations?
     
  2. Get new cush drives, they are clearly old and knackered then. Problem solved.
     
  3. Renthal quick change will prevent it happening again.
     
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  4. Got told that they only came with a complete sprocket carrier assembly, hence the question.
     
  5. Not necessarily - they are prone to do this! As Birdie has said a quick change carrier and sprocket will stop it happening again.
    There is also a cheap fix involving a centre punch, just can't recall how to do it...:Muted:
     
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  6. You centre punch at 4 points around the cush and the carrier. Around its circumference where the two meet.
     
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  7. managed to push the offending crush drives back in, but now of course one has come back out. It seems I will be needing a 41mm socket to remove the sprocket carrier. do they have an integrated sprocket, or can i change the crush drives only? Is there anything i need to know about this procedure. found a sprocket carrier from m&p by Spider for 45 quid, but want to know if i can get away with not spending money that i don't need to. bit fucked off after just fixing a wiring problem. buying a slabside tomorrow and i can guarantee that this 29 year old bike doesn't give me as much grief.
     
  8. ps, why does the renolds carrier prevent this from happening again? It doesn't seem to have a lip on the crush drive cut outs.
     
  9. My reynolds carrier on my 1198 has a lip to stop them moving. I also put some thread lock around the outside too on my 916 which doesn't have a carrier. For what thats worth. It hasn't moved though.
     
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  10. managed to source some crush drives from a s2r sprocket. just wondering if anyone has used a 42 back sprocket on a bip? just thinking of being lazy..!! think buying a quick change sprocket carrier, sprocket (and chain and front sprocket) plus cruch drives, is a bit expensive at the mo. That's what happens with barn finds..!! Only the non working back brake light switch, low fuel light sender and possible rockers and crank plug to worry about now. oh yeah. and sealing the holes in my tank.
     
  11. Drill and tap (M4) the sprocket at the side of each cush drive hole, then insert cush drive rubbers, then screw in a grub screw, with Loctite, in each threaded hole, to clamp the outer sleeve of the drive rubber.
     
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  12. Sourced some spares I had from an s2r and locktited them in. Will be getting a Reynolds when funds allow, with new crush drive rubbers. Is there anywhere I can get them new for less than£90??
     
  13. Any recommendations for gearing, or is stock best.
     
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