Clutch And Brake Bleeding Tool

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Cream_Revenge, Jan 31, 2015.

  1. Can any of you recommend any good bleeding tools?

    Going to try clutch and brakes ready for the new season.
     
  2. Some clear 5mm tubing, an old glass coffee jar & a couple of spanners :upyeah:
     
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  3. I find any known brands are bleeding good.:upyeah:
     
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  4. That's been my previous approach but it seems bubbles go back up so was thinking of something with a one way valve.
     
  5. you can get a car screen wash one way valve.
     
  6. Open the nipple, pull the lever, tighten the nipple, release the lever, repeat as necessary. No need for a one way valve.
     
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  7. One of the bleeding kits from halfrauds... They have a one way valve built in and only cost ten squids. They work well!
     
  8. I had a massive problem bleeding a ZX9R and borrowed a kit from my mate it was a Kennedy one that did the trick no problem, its a hand held vacuum pump, bottle & tubing. Cromwell tools do em.

    Cromwell
     
  9. As Derek says, shut the nipple while you are still slowly moving (squeezing) the lever.
     
  10. For bikes which have very long hoses running up to an ABS unit and back down, this traditional approach may prove inadequate. Something more forceful is needed. Such as one of these, which I use:
    http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1818
     
  11. Sorry I couldn't help myself but ..... An instant coffee jar will get the job done more quickly !

    I brought a suction tool kit off ebay but havnt used it yet so no comments, other than that ive always used the old fashioned way as above .
     
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  12. For a while now I have been using a large syringe body. Suck the fluid out of the reservoir, take the pipe of the reservoir outlet being careful to hold it upright. Fill the syringe, insert it into the pipe, undo the bleed valve then carefully and with a steady pressure on the plunger, inject the new fluid. When there are no bubbles, shut the bleed valve then as you remove the syringe make sure you back fill the tube before reconnecting it to the reservoir. Refill the reservoir with fluid and then squeeze the pipe several times which will get rid of any air. Been successful on both brakes and clutch. Andy
     
  13. I use a syringe like Android, but I just suck the fluid out from the caliper/slave cylinder bleed nipple. I just top the fluid up in the reservoir as I go along. 10 minute job:)


    Rich
     
  14. Any ideas how many ml a 996 brake(s)/clutch hold?
     
  15. Cheers all
    Bought:
    2m of 5mm clear tubing
    1 x 5mm in-line non-return valve
    1x 100ml syringe
    Total: £7.32
     
  16. Reverse bleeding. That's how I do clutch and brakes on my Landrover. I've got a vacuum bleeder powered from an airline. (Too big for a bike system, it would empty the reservoir in a second) but its very efficient way to do it.
     
  17. In all the years I've worked on cars, vans, trucks and bikes I've never used one of those bleeders powered by an air line. I suppose we've all got our own way of doing it.
     
  18. I bought it when I had to replace the clutch master and slave on my Discovery. I hadn't done it before and I'd heard what a pig they could be to bleed so to save much swearing I shelled out. In retrospect I think bleeding the clutch system is a lot easier than sequential bleeding of the brakes but the vacuum bleeder makes it a doddle to do on your own.
     
  19. I aways use the jar and tube method.......

    .....the syringe method wasn't much cop, so I stuck the tube in my arse and farted...........


    ....my brakes are shit.
     
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